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BOOKS BY LOUISE SHELTON 

PUBLISHED BY CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 



BEAUTIFUL GARDENS IN AMERICA. Il- 
lustrated. 4to net SS'OO 

CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA. Il- 
lustrated. 4to net $3.00 

THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN. 

ninstrated. X2mo net S1.00 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM 
IN AMERICA 

WHERE, WHEN, WHAT, TO PLANT 

WITH 

OTHER GARDENING SUGGESTIONS 



BY 
LOUISE SHELTON 

author of 
"the seasons in a flower garden" 



NEW YORK 

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 

1915 






COPTRIGHT, 1915, BT 

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 
Published August. 1915 




AUG 31 l9l3g)CI,A410272 



N 



DEDICATED 

TO 

KINDRED SPIRITS EST THE GARDEN — MY FRIENDS 

KNOWN AND UNKNOWN 



"There's something wonderfully soothing in having your fingers in 
Mother Earth. It seems to take the restlessness out of one. 

"The out-of-doors rests you, just like when you were little and things 
went \vrong, and your mother took you in her arms. The fret and the 
trouble go out, and the quietness and the strength come in. I don't know 
how it happens, but it does happen, and the touch of the earth has something 
to do with it. You feel as if the things that had concerned you were curiously 
unimportant beside the sky and the birds and the growing things, and you 
come in touch with the wonderful patience of the old earth." 

— Frances Duncan. 

"When quite well and happy. 
Work in the garden because you are glad. 

When weary and heart-sick. 
Work in the garden because it will rest you. 

When it rains. 
Work in the garden because then is the time to plant and weed. 

When the winds blow. 
Work now to save the slender stalks from breaking. 

When there is drought. 
Work in the garden to save your plants. 

When it is winter. 
Work now to give sheltering care. 

When it is spring. 
Work in the garden because everybody does. 

When it is summer, 
live in the garden to enjoy the fruits of yoiu" labor. 

When it is autiunn. 

Work in the garden because now is the time to transplant, divide, and 
multiply, and to lay down in the earth the glories for next summer." 

"K there is any other time when you cannot find an excuse for working 
in the garden, remember that it was the first duty and place of man, and 
that there is no philosophy of life, no beauty of art, which has not its seed 
in the earth, or can flourish without knowledge of a garden. What, indeed, 
was the punishment of Adam and Eve but to be driven out of their Eden ? " 

— Anna Lea Merritt, 
" My Gardea," from Century Magazine. 

[Vii] 



PREFACE 

In this my second book on garden lore, I hope as 
far as possible to avoid repetition in cultural direc- 
tions, although a few of these may have to be repeated 
in order to present complete directions for a garden of 
continuous bloom. 

I have not hesitated to admit and correct several 
mistakes in my last little book, "The Seasons in a 
Flower Garden," and I also have taken advantage 
of a woman's privilege to change my mind in regard 
to the use of a few of the plants recommended. Refer- 
ring to my first plant list, I no longer use, where con- 
tinuous bloom is required, several varieties named in 
"The Seasons." Either because they grow too ram- 
pantly, spread too quickly, bloom too early, are too 
short-lived, or else are too weak in coloring. 

The corrections to which I refer are the following: 

First. Reddish Helichrysum — a local name — was 
used instead of Globe Amaranth, of the Helichrysum 
family. 

Second. Silene pendula should read Silene armeria 
according to American catalogues. 

Third. In the first edition of my book, 2 inches of 

[ix] 



PREFACE 

clay was advised by mistake for the bottom of a new 
bed made in sandy ground, whereas 8 inches is none 
too much, because, to a certain extent, clay next to 
sand will absorb the sand, or vice versa. 

Fourth. Calceolaria was suggested rather hastily 
and without first trying it in home soil. The author 
must mention the disappointing venture with this 
beautiful golden flower, which lends such a brilliant 
effect to the English June gardens. An attempt to 
grow it at home from English seed produced plants 
of many leaves, but with insignificant flowers. Pos- 
sibly in different soil and moister climate, results might 
be otherwise. 

While my first book was devised entirely to meet 
the amateur's long-felt want for the ABC of garden- 
ing, with fortnightly advice for the untrained gardener, 
this second book will, I hope, supply the more ex- 
perienced gardener with a comprehensive scheme for 
continuous bloom, as well as abbreviated plans in a 
late chapter for those who would specialize in spring 
and autumn displays. In addition there are some 
other garden suggestions which may, I trust, be help- 
ful to those who have not as yet gone deeply into this 
interesting subject. 



[x] 



FOREWORD 

Eight years have passed since I sent out to kindred 
garden spirits my book, "The Seasons in a Flower Gar- 
den." Although my pen has since been idle, my spade 
has labored on, planting and transplanting, seeking 
ever a plan more satisfactory than the one given in 
the sketch of a single planting plan, which appeared 
in the second and later editions. Finally, after obtain- 
ing in a large garden the results for which I had long 
striven, i. e., complete satisfaction in a continuous 
bloom throughout a season beginning May 20 and 
ending with frost, I realized that I was ready to share 
my working plans with my known and unknown gar- 
den friends. What plants to use. Where to place them, 
and When they bloom, is the scheme I now ofifer to 
those who are striving for continuous "all-over" bloom 
during twenty-six weeks at the longest. Doubtless 
there are others having somewhat similar plans, who 
yet must withhold this coveted information, because 
lacking the opportunity to share it with us. 

There is nothing more bewildering than the variety 
of horticultural advice as to the treatment of certain 
plants: and while all in their way may be right, it is 

[xi] 



FOREWORD 

the different conditions in the various sections of the 
country which produce such a diversity of opinion. 
In the garden world, part of its wisdom is to be very 
liberal and broad-minded. Old-time conventions, so- 
called infallible rules concerning flowers, are often open 
to question and change. Some of these rules are not 
necessarily cast-iron laws, and certain liberties may 
be taken with a plant in one locality that might be 
disastrous to it in another place. There are some things 
that one must learn for himself by experience in his 
own garden; for instance: the depth of winter cover- 
ing required; the biennials and hardy annuals that 
may or may not need to be wintered in frames; the 
safe time in spring for setting out tender annuals, 
etc., etc.; all depending on the climate. Again, what 
plant causes more discussion than the Dahlia.'* Is it 
possible, that notwithstanding all the conflicting ad- 
vice for the benefit of the Dahlia, plentiful watering 
may be the one important rule for its best develop- 
ment.'* In many places the following plants, Gypso- 
phila, Dahlia, Lavatera, and Salpiglossis, grow lux- 
uriantly, but in my dry garden, where watering is 
difficult, it is useless to expect any satisfaction from 
them. Again, and for other local reasons, it is seldom 
that August-sown Shirley Poppies survive the winter 
in the northern exposure of my hillside, and they 
must be sown instead about April 1, or even upon the 

[xii] 



FOREWORD 

March snows, for late June bloom. Then again, one 
person may have a knack in handling some plant suc- 
cessfully where other gardeners invariably fail. A 
woman I know can transplant a lot of Shirley Poppies 
with few losses, whereas other gardeners in attempting 
it, with even the smallest seedlings, probably lose ten 
out of twelve plants. 

Many old-fashioned gardeners are loath to crowd 
the plants after the manner prescribed in these charts. 
This method undoubtedly requires a little more super- 
vision to prevent the smothering of the smaller vari- 
eties, but at the same time, the shaded soil holds 
moisture longer and fewer weeds intrude. 

There is but little left to be desired in the way of 
fullest bloom and harmony, if the charted plans in 
this book are strictly followed. With beds of different 
sizes, but slight variations will be necessary, depend- 
ing only on the number of square feet to be utilized. 
Doubtless for large gardens in moister climate there 
could be added a few more favorites, some of which 
are included in the list of "What to Plant," though 
omitted in the charts. 

These eleven plans later presented are duplicates of 
beds in several gardens where continuous bloom reigns 
from the opening of German Iris until frost. An in- 
telligent gardener, after a little careful study, and 
trial, must surely grasp these plans, and, once accom- 

[ xiii ] 



FOREWORD 

plished, his garden enclosure will be more than ever 
his out-of-door home, with each plant friend always 
in its own familiar place and ever glad to be alive in 
its appointed time. 

If the gardener fails to produce the desired effect, 
let him first carefully examine into his own methods 
of procedure before criticising the plans in question. 

It has been constantly the author's aim to supply 
the gardener in the simplest and briefest way possible 
with the necessary information for the beautifying of 
his garden. The list under "What to Plant," sug- 
gests the plants most useful for this plan of continuous 
bloom, and contains mainly the names used in the 
most familiar American catalogues. Important sug- 
gestions as to the peculiar needs and habits of these 
favored plants are also included, but it will be left to 
the numerous horticultural encyclopaedias, complete 
and abridged, to furnish their full botanical descrip- 
tions and histories. 

It will be observed that the flower names in this 
volume are capitaUzed. As it is a book of instruction, 
where flower names will be frequently sought, the 
author adopts this method for the purpose of bringing 
out the names conspicuously on the pages. 



[xiv] 



CONTENTS 

CBAFTEB PAGE 

I. The Secret of Continuous Bloom . . 1 

II. Where to Sow 5 

III. Where to Plant 12 

IV. When to Sow 26 

V. When to Plant 39 

"VT. When They Bloom 46 

VII. What to Plant — Perennlils .... 51 

VIII. What to Plant — Annuals 73 

IX. Miscellaneous Gardening Advice . . 92 

X. Some Minor Suggestions 108 

Planting Charts 117 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PLAT! 

I. Continuous bloom from mid-May until frost Frontispiece 

FACINa PAOa 

n. Continuous bloom at "The Orchard" 6" 

in. Late Jime bloom 1 , . ^ 

Long open bed 7 ]4 feet wide, right side path J 

IV. Wall bed 4 feet wide \ ^n 

Wall bed 7 feet wide j *" 

V. Continuous bloom in small beds 1 ^ ^ 

Lupins and Gas Plants J 

VI. ConttQuous bloom of annuals bordering brick path 1 a* - 
The scallop edge J 

Vn. All paths curving 42 - 

Vlll. Curving grass paths 48 . 

IX. For a city yard 92 

X. View of upper garden 94 

XI. Upper garden looking down to lower garden 1 q^ 

Part of curved path. Lower garden J * * * 

Xn. Lower garden. End of cm-ved path to lane 1 ^q 

The circular bower J ' * ' 

[ xvii ] 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



FACING PAGE 



PLATE 

XIII. A separate spring garden \ 2qq 

The outer court — "Green Court" J 

XrV. A garden with trees 102 

XV. Trees as a backgroimd 1 jQg 

Trees in Preston Garden j 

XVI. Peonies in mass } jjq 

Shirley Poppies J 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 



Chapter I 

THE SECRET OF CONTINUOUS BLOOM 

To understand the scheme of well-balanced, con- 
tinuous bloom, we must know — 

First: The birth dates and longevity of the flowers 
in our garden, in order to classify them under the 
several different 'periods of bloom. 

In the coimtry surrounding New York City, at 
least, the flowering season continues for twenty to 
twenty-six weeks, or from May 1 to frost, due any 
time between October 1 and November 1. This long 
season may be divided into eight periods of hloom^ 
representing the coming and going of the different 
classes of plants. The blossoming period of most per- 
ennials and annuals lasts about three weeks. A few 
annuals remain for four months and these are inval- 
uable in a garden. 

Second: The plan for planting in lines, for the sake 
of order. 

Third: The alternation of two or more flowering 
periods in these lines, for the purpose of regular and 
balanced bloom. 

[1] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

Fourth: The choicest plants to use and their colors 
and proportions. 

No matter how much information one may have 
acquired concerning the best plants and their habits, 
it is valueless in the quest for well-balanced, continu- 
ous bloom if one lacks the knowledge of the periods 
of bloom and for the alternation of those periods. 
Continuous bloom of course is as prolonged as the 
climate permits and no longer. 

WHAT, WHERE, AND WHEN 

The secret of well-balanced, continuous bloom de- 
pends, therefore, on a definite idea of what flowers 
to plant, where to plant them, and when they bloom, 
with the no less important knowledge of the scheme 
for alternating the several blooming periods, in the straight 
or circular lines, in broken though regular order, through- 
out each and all the beds. It is this plan that obtains 
the ejffect of a well-balanced bloom over the whole 
garden, from the beginning to the end of the season. 
The idea is clearly illustrated in the patterns on many 
an Oriental rug, where figures in different colors ap- 
pear in "broken though regular order," in symmet- 
rical and harmonious design. 

What to plant, or the right choice of hardy peren- 
nials, involves the selection of the most effective and 
longest blooming varieties, blossoming when most 
needed, with no space wasted on any others. The 

[2] 



THE SECRET OF CONTINUOUS BLOOM 

most reliable annuals also must be used to fill up the 
gaps between the various periods of perennial bloom. 

It is equally important that most of the annuals 
shall belong to the class which blooms from mid-June 
until frost, otherwise bare spaces may confront us. 
When certain short-lived annuals are indispensable, 
because of their beauty or usefulness, place them 
near spreading plants that will later cover their vacant 
places. 

Where to plant includes the placing of plants at 
regular intervals, and with regard to their season, 
breadth, height, and color, while the matter of 

When they bloom demands the consideration of the 
various flowering periods in order to allow each period 
equal representation in every section of the garden. 

In later chapters under these three headings there 
is included the further information as to where and 
when to sow these plants in order to have them in 
flower according to the plan. 

A GARDEN WITHOUT ANNUALS 

Unless the flowering season is to be of short dura- 
tion, I have yet to see a satisfactory plan for a per- 
ennial garden without any annuals to complete its 
bloom. When long and continuous bloom is required, 
a plentiful supply of certain annuals is recommended. 

Flower-beds of fairly large dimensions, containing 
none but perennials, may possibly be kept in bloom 

[3] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

for a little over eight weeks. But, as most of the 
perennials take up much room and bloom but a few 
weeks, it would require more than the space of an 
ordinary garden-bed to have a long and continuous 
"all-over" bloom with nothing but perennials.* 
Another objection to depending altogether on peren- 
nials is that the hardiness of some of them is not 
always to be relied upon. Disease may take them, 
or if, in an unusually severe winter a quantity are 
killed, it may be impossible the following spring to 
replace them satisfactorily. Large grown perennials 
are difficult to obtain from the nurseryman, and some 
varieties take three years to develop a strong bloom. 
Annuals from good seeds never fail to develop quickly; 
therefore, the perennial bed should be more or less 
dependent upon a certain number and variety of 
annuals. 

* In Chart No. XI, at the end of the book, there is given a suggestion 
for a bed of perennials, but it is not as satisfactory as where annuals are 
included, at least when the flowering season is prolonged. 



[4] 



Chapter II 
WHERE TO SOW 

HARDY PERENNIALS — THE OPEN NURSERY 

All the perennials that are grown from seed may be 
started in the (ypen nursery — a propagating space 
reserved outside of the garden. 

Even after the garden has been planted, the nursery 
should continue to keep in reserve a small supply of 
well grown plants, especially those of the less long- 
lived varieties, in order to be always ready to replace 
the possible losses in the garden. The nursery will 
then serve as well for a picking garden. Many of the 
plants will self -sow, others will increase by root-spread- 
ing, and the difficulty will be to keep a small nursery 
within bounds, if pests or extreme cold do not inter- 
fere. To know the plants for the nursery, see the 
chapter on "When to Sow." 

For a new garden, it is well to begin sowing in the 
nursery of perennials at least a year in advance of the 
planting, unless well developed hardy perennials can 
be purchased of the nurseryman, an expensive method 

[5] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

of stocking a garden which may not appeal to the 
average gardener. 

Some of the favorite plants* should be two years 
old before they are considered large enough to be ad- 
mitted to the garden, where only strong bloomers are 
desired. This rule is not only important for the pur- 
pose of obtaining the full color effect the first year, 
but also because the slower growing young perennials 
in a crowded border are so insignificant that they may 
be overlooked and hoed up by a careless gardener, or 
else smothered by larger neighbors. 

PLANTS BY PURCHASE 

When a full-grown garden is wanted at once, un- 
less economy forbids, the quickest way to secure it, 
of course, is to purchase in large plants from a nursery- 
man all that is required. But if these plants should 
come very small, turn them into the nursery for a year 
or two; even this will be quicker than raising at least 
the slow-growing varieties from seed. 

If the plants have to mature in a nursery, a garden 
of annuals for one or two seasons would be an in- 
teresting experiment. 

Remember that in planning for just one fair-sized 
clump of certain kinds of plants, it will take from three 
to ten single nursery plants set near together to form 

* Pyrethrum, Columbine, Delphinixun (tall var.). Oriental Poppy, Platy- 
codon, Statice. 

[6] 




c 1 



WHERE TO SOW 

the clump, i.e., Phlox, hardy Asters, etc. With most 
plants of the rapid root-spreading nature, it will take 
one year for a small plant to triple its size. 

The only perennials named in this book, not belong- 
ing to this quick-spreading variety, are Lupin, Sweet 
William, Dictamnus, Columbine, Sedum, Delphinium, 
Platycodon, Foxglove, Hollyhock, Pyrethrum hybrid, 
Anchusa, Statice, Salvia azurea. Poppy, CEnothera, 
Gaillardia. All the rest named are fast root-spreaders, 
which, once well started, will need to be divided every 
two or three years (Peonies every five years). 

WHERE TO sow — ANNUALS 

When considering where to sow his annuals, the 
gardener should remember that part of the scheme 
for continuous bloom necessarily depends also on 
when they are to be sown. 

THE NURSERY 

A nursery of some kind, for certain annuals at least, 
is indispensable to a garden of continuous bloom; pref- 
erably in frames where they are more easily handled. 
But when frames are not available, then a bit of open 
ground somewhere for an open seed-bed and nursery 
should be included in the gardener's calculations. 

A nursery for the August-September sown hardy an- 
nuals is a necessity. A frame is required for wintering 
some of them in a cold climate. See "When to Sow." 

[7] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

The under-glass sowing of certain useful annuals, by- 
April 1 or earlier, brings their first bloom by mid-June 
when they are needed. (See lists on pages 34 and 37.) 
If possible, one or more frames with glass sashes should 
be used for the purpose of hastening the growth of 
these special spring-sown seeds. 

Near New York, as a rule, the cold-frame cannot 
be safely used for spring-sown annuals much before April 
1, but it is well not to delay sowing much beyond that 
date. Sowing is usually begun in the hotbed by March 1. 

If, however, there are no conveniences for them in 
greenhouse, hotbed, or cold-frame, we must be content 
with less late June bloom. We shall then sow all the 
annuals out-of-doors at the proper season,* to await 
germinating time, which differs slightly with the dif- 
ferent plants, according to their nature and hardiness, 
and depending on the climate in the open. Lacking 
the facilities for coaxing certain ones to bloom by 
mid-June, then around July 1 there will be more 
than ever needed the fall-sown Anthemis, Feverfew, 
Larkspur, and Canterbury Bells (C. medium), and if 
possible some well-grown Snapdragon. 

Even on the smallest plot of land, a seed-bed and 
nursery, whether in the open or within frames, can be 
satisfactorily managed if the gardener will economize 
space by not sowing the entire contents of a package 
of seeds, when but half the amount is required. 

* Heliotrope, Lobelia, Viaca, Impatiens, Torenia, Begonia excepted. 

[8] 



WHERE TO SOW 

Use the nursery space for certain annuals in suf- 
ficient number to supply the definite places awaiting 
them in the garden, omitting from the nursery such 
varieties as can better be sown in the garden-bed. 

The richer and finer the soil, the faster will the seed- 
Imgs develop. Sufficient watering, not more and not 
less, is another important nursery rule. 

Though the nursery start necessitates some extra 
work on account of transplanting, to any valuable 
possession a certain amount of trouble and respon- 
sibility is attached; and a well planned nursery be- 
hind a garden of continuous bloom means only a 
reasonable expenditure of effort with endless satisfac- 
tion as the reward. 

When the problem of limited space is absent, how 
fortunate the gardener ! Under glass and in the open, 
he may then sow freely for the garden, the "picking" 
garden, and the friend's garden. 

SOWING IN THE GARDEN-BED 

As elsewhere stated, all annuals named in this book 
excepting Heliotrope, Begonias, etc., may be sown 
in spring where they are to bloom, when early flow- 
ering is not required of them. See footnote, page 8. 

And again, it is perhaps needless to add, there are 
some annuals which are always sown in the garden- 
beds, because they do not transplant well. These 
are Cleome, Poppies, Candytuft, Nasturtiums, an- 

[9] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

nual Lupin, Lavatera, and Eschscholtzia; while Ca- 
lendula, Calliopsis, Painted Daisies, and annual Gail- 
lardia, often troublesome after transplanting, had 
better be sown in their places too. 

Generally Sweet Alyssum is sown in the garden, 
but sometimes in the nursery when the early Pansies 
are occupying too much of their space at the edge of 
the bed. Sweet Alyssum transplants very well, and 
with plenty of watering can replace the Pansies at 
any time, when the latter must be replaced. 

Experienced horticulturists believe that the self- 
sown plants, either annuals or perennials, are the 
hardiest, and most likely to produce the strongest 
possible bloom, especially when not transplanted. For 
this reason, it is sometimes advisable to allow a few 
flowers of the seK-sowing varieties to go to seed, and 
when the young plants must be moved, the earth 
should be soaked, and kept intact about the roots. 

Except with a few varieties of annuals, it is easier 
to sow and care for a quantity of seedlings in the 
limited space of a nursery, and then to transplant 
them when older into the beds, than it is to sow them 
in the garden where they are to grow, and there to 
try to watch and care for such young things in beds 
already well occupied with large plants. In the latter 
case many seedlings will suffer from shading. But 
this advice do'es not necessarily apply to the low- 
growing annuals for the front of a bed; for instance, 

[ 10 ] 



WHERE TO SOW 

when Pansies edge the front line, it is often possible 
to sow Sweet Alyssum or Portulaca 6 inches back 
from the centre of the Pansy 'plants, to be ready to 
bloom when Pansies are no longer at their best and 
can be discarded. 

The Pansies should be planted within 3 or 4 inches 
of the edge. If they creep over the line all the better. 

Calliopsis, var. Golden Wave, Calendula, Gail- 
lardia, Painted Daisies, and Nasturtiums, may be sown 
likewise around Sweet William and Tulips in order 
to replace them later. The latter are cut down three 
or four weeks after bloom: Sweet William may be dis- 
carded when bloom begins to fade. 



[11] 



Chapter III 

WHERE TO PLANT 

The alternation of several periods of bloom 
planted in lines is the main point in the secret 
of well balanced, continuous bloom. 

In order to economize room, and to systematize the 
scheme to an orderly plan for giving the various bloom- 
ing periods equal representation throughout the space 
of one bed, plant in lines, and alternate in the lines the 
plants of several different periods: for instance, in one 
line alternate several times the plants of May and 
June, or else of May, June, and July, i. e.. Lupins, 
Campanula medium, Foxglove, repeated two, three, 
or more times. 

Other plants of the same periods may appear in 
alternation in another line, while still other lines will 
show the alternate setting of other blooming periods 
either with annuals, with perennials, or with both. 

At each period have more than one line in flower 
at a time (not every plant in the line), and always 
with care that the front bloomers do not conceal those 
behind. 

[12] 



WHERE TO PLANT 



OPEN BEDS AND WALL BEDS 

Bed Space. — Long, continuous, balanced bloom with 
perennials and annuals in small beds is a difficult 
proposition, and it is best to plan a garden, if pos- 
sible, with beds of rather large dimensions when plenty 
of perennials are desired. An exception may be made 
when a bed is against a wall, which can be planted 
effectively if only 4 feet deep, but a larger space is 
preferable because easier to plant. 

The planting plans for the beds which are open, 
on view from all sides, differ somewhat from those 
for beds adjoining a boundary wall or hedge. 

For convenience' sake the beds that are open on all 
sides will be called open beds, and the beds adjoin- 
ing a boundary line or wall which forms a background, 
WALL beds. 

THE open bed long AND NARROW 

In the OPEN BED, the centre space where the tall- 
est plants grow might be considered as the back- 
ground. Unless the bed is quite wide, as m Chart 
Vn, the centre of any open bed should not contain 
the very tallest plants, e. g., early Cosmos. 

When the open bed is much longer than wide, for 
instance, 7 3^ by 28 feet (Chart IV), plant the middle 
line with the moderately tall plants of four alternat- 

[13] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

ing periods of bloom repeated several times. Study the 
periods in chapter VI. See Plate III. 

On either side of the middle line have two corre- 
sponding identical lines of plants of two or three dif- 
ferent periods, set out in repeated alternation, and 
of somewhat lower growth than those in the centre 
line, preferably of annuals in a bed as narrow as 
7 feet. If these annuals are as slender in form as 
Campanula medium. Snapdragon, and Larkspur, an- 
other close row of slender annuals might be snug- 
gled in front of them, such as Salpiglossis, Vinca, 
Scabiosa. 

Next in order on two corresponding sides of the bed 
run a line of perennials in three alternating periods. 

Finally the bed should be bordered with low annuals. 

About a foot back from the edge of the bed there 
will be room for the brief bloom of Cottage Tulips. 

While advising the gardener in search of continuous 
bloom with perennials and annuals not to lay out 
long OPEN BEDS as narrow as 3 or 4 feet, on account 
of the extra amount of work necessary to care for 
so many plants in a crowded area, and the difficulty 
in keeping the early perennials from being smothered, 
the illustration on page 24 should not be overlooked. 
The planting is entirely within open beds which are 
but 33^ feet wide by 18 feet long. Chrysanthemum 
is the only perennial used after June. The planting 
is explained on pages 24 and 25. 

[14] 



Plate III 




Late June bloom 
'Riverside Farm," Tyringham, Mass., Mrs. Banyer Clarkson 




Long open bed 7^2 feet wide, right side path 
'Glen Alpine," Morristown, N. J., Mrs. C. W. McAlpin, Esq. 



WHERE TO PLANT 

LARGE OPEN BEDS, SQUARE, ROUND, OR OVAL 

In a good-sized open bed, square, round, or oval, 
i. e.y 12 or more feet in diameter (Charts VI and VII), 
the straight lines, already described in the 7 by 28 foot 
bed, become circular lines around a centre space, which 
centre forms the background of such beds. This cen- 
tre measures from 2 to 3 feet in diameter, and con- 
tains within its space two sets of tall plants: First, 
a mass of spring flowers like Bluets (fall-sown) or 
else three Lupins in a group with a few Cottage Tulips 
— all tall for that period around June 1. Later, there 
follows some ever blooming variety of annual, like 
Zinnia, Marigold, or early Cosmos. Several plants 
of any one of these varieties are placed around and 
close to the outer lines of the centre space to spread over 
it when early bloom is past, and Bluets are removed. 
If perennial Lupins form the centre group, they are 
not removed, but are unlikely to suffer from this 
shading. If necessary to prevent crowding, a little 
of their foliage could be nipped off. 

Then the other lines encircling this bed (supposing 
it to be 12 or 14 feet in diameter) can be planted 
somewhat similar to those in the long 7 by 28 foot 
bed, only on circles instead of on straight lines. (See 
Chart VI.) When the diameter of the bed is over 
14 feet, then plant additional circular line or lines of 
alternating plants, allowing one extra line to every 23^ 
feet of diameter. 

[15] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

SMALLER OPEN BEDS, SQUARE, ROUND, OR OVAL 

In the case of the smaller round, square, or oval 
bed, measuring in diameter 10 feet or less, it is diffi- 
cult to use a long succession of perennials to advan- 
tage, luiless some of them are removed after blooming, 
which disturbance probably will kill them. A few 
Chrysanthemums, lower Delphiniuilis, and Agrostem- 
mas might be used, but prepare chiefly for annuals 
and Tulips. In the middle of a bed, 8 to 10 feet 
diameter, for first bloom, have a close mass of Bluets 
and Silene within an 18-inch square. Later, replace 
them with September flowering Chrysanthemums, h. p. 
For the early season the bed is edged with Pansies 
and English Daisies, and close behind them are Cot- 
tage Tulips, alternating with Sweet William, discarded 
after bloom. The Sweet William and Cottage Tulips 
are later replaced with Petunia, Ageratum, Verbena, 
or Heliotrope. 

The Pansy* space is later an overflow for Petunias 
or others on the adjoining line. 

Behind the Petunia line for later bloom are Scabiosa, 
Salpiglossis, and Snapdragon. And to the rear, still 
another line of alternating fall-sown Larkspur, dwarf 
Zinnia, and Canterbury Bells, encircling the central 
Silene-Bluet group. See Chart VIII. 

Taken from pots or with roots balled, Chrysanthe- 

* Where the season opens late, Pansies and Daisies may be omitted. 

[16] 



WHERE TO PLANT 

mum, Heliotrope, etc., are easily moved at any time 
in June or July. 

Beds of these proportions as well as smaller beds 
are also often filled with the lower annuals of one or 
two varieties, i. e., first Pansies mixed with English 
Daisies, and later a mass of some long blooming va- 
riety, such as Petunia, or else blue Ageratum edged 
with white Ageratum, or pink fibrous Begonia bor- 
dered with Sweet Alyssum. 

To make a close connection between the Pansy, 
and, for instance. Petunia bloom, the following sug- 
gestion is offered. Pansies may have been planted 
out about May 10 or earlier. Petunias were started 
under glass April 1. When Pansies shall have bloomed 
about six weeks, their best days are over in warm 
climates, so remove every other Pansy plant, replacing 
them with Petunias, which as yet are not old enough 
to be effective, but there is still some Pansy bloom 
left. 

WTien the Petunias begin to branch and bloom, the 
remaining Pansies are ready for removal, and all the 
spaces are soon covered with the tireless Petunia. 
Because Ageratum and Verbena are likewise sprawling 
plants, they can be used instead of Petunia, if pre- 
ferred. 

It would be possible also to sow in May the seeds 
of Petunias or dwarf Calliopsis or Calendula, or other 
quickly germinating seeds around the Pansies, trim- 

[17] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

ming the latter slightly to give light to the seedlings; 
but on account of the crowded quarters this is not 
as likely to be a satisfactory method. 

SEVEN FEET DIAMETER 

In this small bed a plan similar to Chart VIII may 
be adopted, except that the centre space should be 
smaller and one line omitted. Zinnias might also be 
omitted and replaced with Snapdragon. Then put 
Sweet William in the Snapdragon place on Scabiosa 
line, and scatter Tulips over the bed, setting the 
Pansies close to the Scabiosa line. These smaller beds 
are more satisfactory when filled with one or two 
varieties of long blooming annuals. 

Summary 

Open Beds, Longer than Wide — 

Width, 7 feet or more: Use perennials and annuals. 
Width, 6 feet or less : Perennials difficult to handle. 

Open Beds, Round, Square, Oval — 

Diameter, 12 feet or more : Use perennials and annuals. 
Diameter, 7-10 feet: Use a few perennials, preferably 

annuals 4 feet high and less, and bulbs. 
Less than 7 feet: Use annuals and bulbs. 

THE WALL BED 

In the WALL BED the tallest perennials and annuals 
are, of course, placed in the rear line against the 
background, whatever it may be. The plants in the 

[ 18 ] 



WHERE TO PLANT 

other lines graduate in height, down to the lower 
edging of the bed. 

It is no more diflBcult to plant effectively with per- 
ennials and annuals the long wall bed, only 4 feet 
wide, than it is to attain the desired effect in the 
wider 7 by 28 foot open bed. This statement is not 
for the purpose of advocating a 4 feet wide wall bed, 
as one wider is preferable; but observe that in the 
OPEN bed, after leaving the centre, each line is du- 
plicated in order to give a well balanced effect to the 
beds. This question of keeping the balance on both 
sides of the open bed complicates the work of plant- 
ing it. The WALL BED is different in this respect, and 
easier to handle. 

The WALL BED, like other beds, can have Pansies 
for early bloom in front, followed by some long-lived 
annuals to make an effective finish and to bloom 
without intermission until frost. 

Near the front of this bed there should appear a 
taller row of annuals or perennials, possibly 15 inches 
high, of three alternating periods. Farther back, an- 
other line of annuals, or else annuals and perennials. 

Then at the rear of the wall bed a line of still 
taller growth, such as early Cosmos or Miniature Sun- 
flowers, mixed with the tall perennials against the 
background. 

The foregoing suggests a plan for the narrowest 
possible wall bed containing perennials and annuals. 

[19] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

(See Chart I and Plate IV). A wider bed with addi- 
tional lines will be all the more effective. See Plate IV. 

Another plan for continuous bloom in a narrow 
(4-foot) bed against a background is the following: 

Rear Line. — Alternate Lily candidum* and Oriental 
Poppies. In a very long bed add to the line three, 
tall Delphinium, one at each end and one in centre. 
Two Cleome seeds may be sown in each Poppy space, 
when the latter die down. 

Next Line. — Alternate Anchusas Opal and tall Zin- 
nias; in a very long bed, add to the line three groups 
of pink Cannas in front of Delphiniums (three Can- 
nas to a group). 

Next Line. — Fall-sown Larkspurs and Canterbury 
Bells, alternating. 

Front Line. — Late Tulips, with Sweet Alyssum sown 
early. 

SPACES REQUIRED FOR PERENNIALS AND ANNUALS 

In a full garden of continuous bloom, root-spreaders 
like the Phloxes cannot be allowed to attain very 
wide proportions, unless the beds are spacious. A 
safe rule would be to keep the Phlox clump down 
to about twelve shoots, except in a very large garden. 

A later chapter on "What to Plant" mentions the 
number of single plants or shoots that certain clumps 

* Lily candidum, will not survive the heavy shading of surrounding plants. 
Stake adjoining Zinnias and Cleomes. 

[ 20 ] 



Plate IV 




Wall bed 4 feet wide 

"Glen Alpine," Morristown, N. J. 





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^^^^^^^|^^W^«|H^^A^ 


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^H 


i^BPKsruSK^S^^KQwuEl^^al^O^&KiS 




i^^IP^ 


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^ipi 


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^^^^^HnT^H^M^^HiiHHl^^^^HW^^/ . - 




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i^m 



Wall bed 7 feet wide 
"Onunda," Madison, N. J., Mrs. D. Willis James 



WHERE TO PLANT 

may ordinarily average. Read also section on "Plants 
by Purchase," page 6. 

With the non-spreaders, such as Lupin and Fox- 
glove, in small beds it may not be possible to use 
more than one plant to a space, but in a roomy bed 
we should endeavor to group two or three such plants, 
8 to 10 inches apart whenever the allotted space can 
be made to contain them. 

It is difficult to indicate in inches or feet the exact 
space to be allowed each plant, the area varying from 
6 to 24 inches. (Peonies and Dahlias take 3 feet.) 
A good average, however, might be 15 square inches. 

At the rear of a wall bed, where the strongest per- 
ennials grow, full 18 inches separation is a safe rule, 
and when the outer foliage of Hollyhock, Delphinium, 
or Monkshood encroaches, it can be cut off. 

When such annuals as early Cosmos and Minia- 
ture Sunflower are added to the rear hardy line, the 
full 18 inches need not be allowed them, as they make 
their spread farther up and require less room at the 
base. By late July these annuals, placed adjoining 
Hollyhocks and Oriental Poppies, gracefully cover the 
vacancies left by the earlier blooming perennials, and 
blossom incessantly until frost. 

ANNUALS vs. PERENNL^LS AS EDGINGS 

It is better always to use annuals for edging a bed 
if a bright finish is desired during a long season. (See 

[21] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

Plate VI.) When such perennials as Armeria, Achil- 
lea tomentosa or Clove Pinks are grown in the front 
line, there is nothing left by mid-June but their ever- 
green foliage. If these plants should be alternated 
with strong, long-blooming annuals, such as Ageratum 
and Verbena, the latter would soon creep over their 
perennial friends, which, for lack of light and air, 
must turn sickly and will probably die. In a bed 
for continuous bloom, it is impossible to plant in 
effective alternation along the whole length of the 
edge all the perennials that would be required to rep- 
resent the various periods until frost. 

If, however, it is desired to diminish the quantity 
of annuals required for an edging, the following combi- 
nation with perennials is suggested for one bed at least. 

Plant the hardy, silvery, bushy Santolina incana 
every 24 inches, and between plant groups of Cottage 
Tulips. 

Then plant in May, around the Tulips, a few Agera- 
tum, white in some spaces, blue in others; or add to 
some of these spaces other all-summer blooming an- 
nuals, not much taller than the Ageratum. 

Of the low growing perennials for an edging, For- 
get-me-nots, Viola cornuta, Campanula Carpatica, and 
blue Plumbago bloom the longest. Plumbago, with 
one or two of the others named, could be satisfactorily 
used without annuals when the garden is to bloom only 
in May, June, and September. 

r 22 1 



WHERE TO PLANT 

In planting for a long blooming season, crowding is 
more or less necessary. A careful staking and care 
to remove unnecessary foliage will prevent injury to 
a small plant in danger of being overshadowed by a 
large one. Let hidden stakes support the larger plants 
for the preservation of their symmetry , as well as for 
the life of the smaller neighbors. 

THE SCALLOPED EDGE 

When a wall bed is sujQBciently deep and long — not 
less than 12 by 25 feet — an effective finish to the front 
is produced by sowing Sweet Alyssum in scallops, 
using slightly taller annuals like Petunias to fill the 
scallops. See Plate VI and Chart X. 

The scallops may measure about 2 to 3 feet in depth, 
and 3 to 5 feet across the top from point to point, 
which allows 5 to 8 scallops to a 25-foot bed. There 
should be a space of from 4 to 6 inches between the 
edge of the bed and lower end of curve. This space 
can hold two lines of Sweet Alyssum, the lines in- 
creasing in the wider spaces. Within the curves may 
be placed Pansies in separate colors for early bloom, 
followed by such long blooming annuals as pink Pe- 
tunia, dwarf yellow Calliopsis, fibrous Begonia, Ver- 
bena, Ageratum, Dianthus, or others of about the 
same height. It will take possibly twenty-five of such 
plants to fill a large curve, except in the case of Ver- 

[23] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

bena, Ageratum, and Petunia, of which but twelve 
may be required. 

The scallops sometimes can be outlined with pink 
Candytuft or yellow Sanvitalia or blue Brachycome, 
set 6 inches apart. 

Sown in the bed in April with Sweet Alyssum, Candy- 
tuft will die out by the time the plants within the curve 
are nearly full grown. Sanvitalia after a while will 
creep out to mix most effectively with Sweet Alyssum 
in a long bloom. 

Sown in April, Sweet Alyssum will need to be cut 
back in August about half-way, in order to prolong 
its bloom until frost. Variety Little Gem is the best 
for this plan. 

A GARDEN OF NARROW BEDS, THREE AND ONE-HALF 
FEET WIDE 

The illustration facing this page shows a small 
garden, which in spite of narrow beds is overflowing 
with continuous bloom from May 1 till frost. Tulips, 
a few May and June perennials, and several varieties 
of annuals flourish here, but on account of the narrow 
quarters, the gardener must be continuously vigilant 
to prevent the smothering of the smaller plants. 

The first bloom brings the early Tulips, edging all 
the beds and alternating with Pansies just behind the 
box border, with three groups of these Tulips also in 
the centre line of each bed. 

[24] 



Plate V 




Continuous bloom in small beds 
Crescent Manor, Morristown, N. J., Mrs. George C. Fraser 




By courtesy of Stumpp & Walter 



By courtesy of Miss Cornelia S. L. Clarkson 
Lupins and gas plants 



WHERE TO PLANT 

No sooner have they gone than the Cottage Tulips 
appear on both sides of and close to the plants in the 
centre line of every bed. Tulips are later removed. 

The centre lines contain Lupins, Delphinium bella- 
donna, Lilies, Larkspur, and hardy Chrysanthemums* 
in alternation. 

Running parallel with and close to the two Cottage 
Tulip lines are two lines of alternating annuals, i. e.. 
Campanula medium. Snapdragon, and Zinnia. 

Some Sweet William are crowded in, and with Pan- 
sies they are later discarded for Heliotrope, compact 
Petunias, Ageratum, Impatiens,t etc., which are care- 
fully moved to their places with balled roots, or from 
pots. 

The centre bed (7 feet diameter) of this garden is 
devoted mainly to annuals and bulbs. The planting 
is quite similar to plan on page 18. Intelligent, pains- 
taking labor keeps this small garden blooming from 
spring frost until autumn frost. See Chart IX. 

* In late June, two Chrysanthemums are planted in each Lily space, 
f Or Salpiglossis. 



[25] 



Chapter IV 
WHEN TO SOW 

PERENNIALS 

When depending on your own nursery for the first 
garden supply all but a few of the plants named in 
this chapter may be started from seeds, the earlier in 
in the season, the better bloom the next year. The 
most important plants to keep in stock afterward are: 
First, those which take longest to mature, and which 
may die out within five years; and, second, those 
which grow quickly, but which are more or less short- 
lived. 

Start Two Years Before Required 

KEEP SOME IN STOCK 

Pyrethrum hybrid.* Salvia pratensls. 

Columbine. Delphinium formosum. 

Salvia azurea, var. Pitcheri. Delphinium hybrid. 

Monkshood Wilsoni. Platycodon. 

Anemone Japonica. Oriental Poppy. 

These are likely to die within five years, excepting Poppy, 
Platycodon, and Anemone Jap. 

All seK-sow quite freely excepting Platycodon, Anemone, 
and Salvia azurea. 

* The perennials most quickly killed by overcrowding are Pyrethrum 
hybrid, Lily candidum, and Shasta Daisy. In a dry climate the Lupin 
is better for some shading from the neighboring plants, but will suffer if 
deprived of all air, dew, and water, as when the heavy foliage of a near-by 
plant covers it over completely. 

[26] 



WHEN TO SOW 

Start Twelve Months Before Required 

SHORTER-LIVED — KEEP IN STOCK 

Lupin polyphyllus. Anchusa Italica, Opal. 
Lupin polyphyllus Moerheimi. Delphinium belladonna. 

Gaillardia. Delphinium Chinense. 

Foxglove. Campanula persicifolia. 

Hollyhock. Sweet Rocket 

Sweet William. (Enothera Youngi. 

Agrostemma cor. Shasta Daisy. 

Those on left column are the shorter-lived. All seK-sow 
freely except (Enothera, Campanula persicifolia, and Delphin- 
ium Chinense. To bloom well twelve months after sowing 
Lupins need the best soil and watering. 

Start Twelve Months Before Required 

NO RESERVE STOCK NECESSARY 

Rarely die out — start enough seeds for the first garden 
planting,* if plants are not bought of the nurseryman. 

Achillea "Pearl." Helenium, Riverton Gem. 

Lychnis Chalcedonica, white. Helenium, Riverton Beauty. 

Coreopsis lanceolata. Valerian officinalis, alba. 

Statice latifolia requires two Rudbeckia purpurea, 

years to grow. . Gypsophila paniculata. 

Seeds Not Obtainable — Buy Plants 

NO RESERVE STOCK NECESSARY 

If only a few of each can be afforded, allow them two or 
three years to spread by root in nursery in order to secure 
quantity desired for garden; or else for immediate use pur- 
chase total number of plants needed for each and every 
clump.* 

* Under "What to Plaut" find the number of separate (nursery) plants 
required to make one clump sufiSciently large to take a place in the garden. 

[27] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

Irises — German. Eupatorium coelestinum. 

Irises — Japan. Veronica, long subsess. 

Lemon Lily — ^Hemerocallis. Sedum spectabile. 

Ranunculus acris fl. pi. Dictamnus — Gas Plant, non- 
Phlox — late. spreader. 

Phlox — Miss Lingard. Asters — Tall late August. 

Peonies. 

Under congenial conditions — sunshine, rich soil, and 
watering — all plants named, when sown in April and 
May, will give satisfaction the following year, except- 
ing those where otherwise noted. Sow them in spring, 
rather than in summer, whenever possible. If they 
must be sown in summer keep the seedlings moist, 
also shaded for at least half the day until mid- 
September. 

Instead of requiring it to live through two years. 
Sweet William is so easily grown that it is best to give 
it the same treatment as the Campanula medium, i. e., 
same date of sowing. May 1, in nursery, and discard 
it after its first bloom, using its space after bloom for 
later annuals. 

Of the plants named above, Dictamnus is the 
slowest growing and, therefore, the one variety above 
all others to be purchased first, in as large plants as 
possible, and planted as soon as possible in a per- 
manent place. It must be established several years 
before its bloom is satisfactory; it is better therefore 
never to disturb it. 

[28] 



WHEN TO SOW 

HARDY ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS 

Hardy annuals may be divided into three classes 
or degrees of hardiness. 

The First Class 

The hardiest of the best hardy annuals are Bluets* 
(Corn-flower), Silene armeria, Shirley Poppies and Lark- 
spur,* with the perennial Forget-me-not, var. palustris 
semperflorens, Anthemis, and Feverfew, treated as 
hardy annuals. 

Fall-Sown. — When sown the previous year in August, 
these plants, blooming the following May, June, and 
July, greatly assist in the scheme of continuous bloom. 
In most climates they survive the winter well in the 
open ground, needing only a sprinkling of leaves or 
salt-hay to keep them warm. 

Self-sown in summer and usually germinating in 
August, they are by nature May and June bloomers, 
which, with Campanula medium (biennial Canterbury 
Bell), are quite indispensable to this period — the Lark- 
spurs lasting through July, or later. 

Feverfew and Forget-me-not palustris flower all sum- 
mer, but, like Viola cornuta, bloom so weakly in the 
latter half of the summer that for this period at least 
some gardeners prefer not to depend on them alone. 

* In a warm climate it is better to sow Bluets and Larkspm-s not earlier 
than September 1 to 12 to prevent their growing too tall before winter; 
they are thus less likely to be broken by snow and ice and more easily 
transplanted in spring. 

[29] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

Consequently they sow the spreading variety of Sweet 
Alyssum close to the line of Forget-me-nots, which is 
later partly covered by the creeping white sprays that 
mingle well with the scantier blossoms of sky-blue. 

After the first splendid bloom (July 1) of fall-sown 
Feverfew, some of us choose to replace it with the 
same plants, spring-sown; either by transplanting the 
latter from the open spring nursery sometime in June, 
or else by sowing seeds of Feverfew in April near their 
older brothers in the garden. Spring-sown outdoors, 
it blooms by August. 

All the annuals of the hardiest class may be sown 
also in the spring. 

Shirley Poppies sown April 1 in the garden, bloom 
in late June, and are not transplantable. 

The Second Class 

Sown August. — In this class are the Pansies, Eng- 
lish Daisies, Snapdragon, Dianthus, and the biennial 
Forget-me-not, var. alpestris Victoria, etc. 

For early bloom they also should be sown in August 
of one year to bloom the next May and June, and as 
a rule they are only safely wintered in a cold-frame 
(glass or slat top) from New York City northward. 
Occasionally, where they have a well protected posi- 
tion with covering, they may survive a cold winter in 
the open, but, except Dianthus, the risk is not worth 
taking. 

[ 30 ] 



WHEN TO SOW 

Spring-Sown. — This class may be sown as well in 
spring in the open ground when early bloom is not 
required, Forget-me-nots and English Daisies excepted, 
or else in the early spring under glass in order to 
hasten the bloom. 

The beautiful June Campanula medium, biennial, 
(Canterbury Bell) for best results should be started 
in the open nursery in May to blossom a year later 
for three or four weeks, and not again. It is about 
as hardy as the Pansy. 

The garden cannot have too many plants of Snap- 
dragon, Larkspur, Campanula medium, and Feverfew. 
They are easily reared, occupy but a small space, and 
if sown the preceding year, will finish blooming the 
next season by the time the spring-sown plants are 
ready to replace them. They can be replaced by their 
kind (except Campanula) or others. It is only when 
Snapdragon is forced to begin full flowering in early 
June that it requires to be replaced in August by 
Snapdragon from a later sowing. 

The Gardener's Guide in Brief 

summary of foregoing pages 

First-Class Hardy Annuals 

August-sown Bluets (Corn-flower). 

(the 25th). Silene armeria. 

Open nursery. Shirley Poppies, sow in garden only. 

Larkspurs. 

Anthemis tinctoria Kelwayi, yellow. 

[ 31 ] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

Anthemis tinctoria, creamy. 
Feverfew, double white. 
Forget-me-not, var. palustris semperflo- 
rens (sow August 1). 

These hardiest amiuals, except Forget-me-nots, may be 
sown also in spring in the open to bloom later in the season 
— ^August, and Poppies bloom earlier. 

Second-Class Hardy Annuals 

August-sown. Pansies.* 

English Daisies. 

Snapdragon. 

Dianthus, Pinks. 

Forget-me-not, var. alpestris hybrid. 

These also may be sown in the open in spring to bloom 
later the same year, excepting Forget-me-not and English 
Daisy. 

Of course, the early bloom may be had from most 
of these plants by sowing them in February in hot- 
bed or greenhouse; but why take up so much valu- 
able greenhouse or hotbed space, unless for Snap- 
dragon, if it is possible to start them in the open 
nursery the preceding year, to bring bloom in May 
and June? 

Third-Class Hardy Annuals 

Spring-Sovm. — Sweet Alyssum and Candytuft, the 
earliest to germinate, Eschscholtzia, Calliopsis, Calen- 

* For bloom beginning in April, sow Pansies early in August; for mid- 
May bloom, sow August 30. 

[32] 



WHEN TO SOW 

dula, Tagetes, Gaillardia, Nicotiana, Portulaca, Nas- 
turtium, Lupin, Lavatera, Zinnia, Globe Amaranth, 
Sunflower, Early Cosmos, Marigold, and Petunia belong 
to the third and still less hardy class of hardy annuals, 
and yet some of them are the first to bloom from 
seeds sown early in the open. While unable to with- 
stand the winter cold even in a cold-frame, most of 
them will germinate in spring without a glass covering 
while the air is still chilly. 

Frame space is not required for Sweet Alyssum, 
Calhopsis, Tagetes, Salvia farinacea, Gaillardia, Nico- 
tiana, Portulaca, Eschscholtzia, Calendula, Candy- 
tuft, Lupin, Nasturtium, Lavatera, and the last six 
are not easily transplanted, but when frames are avail- 
able, use them for forcing the earlier bloom of the following : 
Zinnia, Petunia, Cosmos, Globe Amaranth, Sunflower, 
Marigold. 

This advice applies especially to the use of the cold- 
frame near New York City east and west and north- 
ward to Poughkeepsie. W^ithin this area there are 
doubtless some very sheltered open places where Zin- 
nia at least might make almost as early a start and 
blossom almost as soon as in a frame, providing, how- 
ever, that an unusual late frost does not affect the 
growth. The gardener will soon learn what to ex- 
pect of his annuals in his own garden. 



[33] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 



FOR BLOOM TILL FROST 

The Gardener's Guide in Brief 

summary of preceding page 

Third-Class Hardy Annuals 

Spring-sown Zinnia. First Division. 

April 1. Globe Amaranth. {First bloom, late June.) 

Under glass. Sunflower (miniature), 
if possible. Cosmos, early. 

Marigold, African. 

Petunia. 



April 15. 
Open bed 
preferably 



* Lupin (blooms 6 weeks). 

* Candytuft " " " 
, Sweet Alyssum. 

Calliopsis. 

* Calendula. 
Tagetes. 

Salvia farinacea (July). 



Second Division. 

(First bloom, June.) 



May 1. 


Gaillardia. 


Third Division. 


Open beds. 


Portulaca. 
Nicotiana. 

* Nasturtium. 

* Eschscholtzia. 


{First bloom, July.) 



* Lavatera (blooms 4 weeks). 

The plan for continuous bloom demands that these 
plants of the first division be started under glass by 
April 1. Those in the second and third division are 
better sown in the open. Those marked with a star 
should not be transplanted if avoidable. 

Portulaca, Petunia, and Nicotiana do not germinate 
in the open ground until nearly the first of June. 

I 34 J 



Platk VI 




Continuous bloom of annuals bordering brick path 

" Cherrvcroft " 




The scallop edge 
'Cherrycroft," Morristown, N. J., Dudley Olcott, Esq. 



WHEN TO SOW 



THE TENDER ANNUALS 



Spring-Sown. — The tender annuals belong to a class 
of annuals that cannot survive the slightest touch of 
frost. They may be sown in the open (most of them) 
or else all may be planted out, only when danger of 
frost is past. However, when certain varieties are 
required to bloom in June, sow them in hotbed, win- 
dow-box, or greenhouse, from February 15 to March 15. 
The tender annuals advised are: Verbena, Begonia, 
Ageratum, Vinca, Lobelia, Salpiglossis, Torenia, Cocks- 
comb, Aster, Scabiosa, Painted Daisy, Balsam, Cle- 
ome. Heliotrope, Impatiens. 

Heliotrope and tuberous Begonias are best raised 
by cuttings in greenhouse heat. Choice Verbenas are 
sometimes propagated by cuttings. Lacking green- 
house or hotbed for starting them very early, the 
above-named may be purchased in plants, or Agera- 
tum, Salpiglossis, Torenia, Vinca, and Verbena could 
be started like Zinnias in the cold-frame April 1, 
which would be better than still later sowing in the 
open ground, as they are slow growing. 

Cockscomb, Aster, Scabiosa, Painted Daisy, Balsam, 
and Cleome are not required until later, so they may 
be sown in the open in May, and transplanted, if neces- 
sary, excepting Cleome and Painted Daisy, which do 
not transplant well. 

In spite of their beauty, it might not be feasible to ad- 

[35] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

mit into a small garden of continuous bloom such short- 
lived annuals as Schizanthus, Godetia, and Clarkia. 
But when beds are very large they may be entered as 
additional luxuries in small groups alternating with 
plants of one or two other periods of bloom. For 
instance, with Larkspur and Celosia spicata, or with 
Larkspur and Gladioli, the latter planted July 1; or 
with September hardy Chrysanthemums and groups 
of Scabiosa. These are all slim plants, and may be 
set about 6 inches apart, except Chrysanthemums, 
10 inches apart. 



[36] 



WHEN TO SOW 

FOR BLOOM TILL FROST 

The Gardener's Guide in Brief 

summary of preceding pages 

Tender Annuals 

Spring-sown. Lobelia. First Division. 

March 1 to 15. Begonia, i&brous. 

Hotbed or green- Begonia, tub., cuttings. 
house. Heliotrope, cuttings. 

Impatiens, light pink. 

Ageratum. 

Vinca. 

Salpiglossis. 

Torenia. 

Verbena. 

April 1, cold-frame, Cockscomb. Second 

or Asters. Division. 

May 15, open bed. Scabiosa. 

Balsam. 

Cleome, 

Painted Daisy. 

In order to take their places promptly in the scheme 
for continuous bloom, those in the first division must 
be started early under glass. If there is sufficient 
frame space, those in the second division may be 
started in the cold-frame, except Cleome and Painted 
Daisy, which are better for being sown where they 
are to grow. 

[37] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

In this scheme for continuous bloom, the sowing 
dates given provide that late June shall be the week 
when many of the spring-sown annuals shall com- 
mence to furnish a fair bloom. Lupin, Lavatera, 
English Daisy, Silene, Poppy, Candytuft, Asters, Bal- 
sam, Salpiglossis, and Cleome are the only annuals 
named in this chapter that do not blossom for sev- 
eral months in congenial climate. 

In the author's garden the mid-June sowing of at 
least some of the annuals — Zinnia, Larkspur, Aster, 
and feathered Celosia — is unsatisfactory, as the plants 
not having made a certain start before June 15 are 
more or less stunted for the rest of the season. This 
may not be the case in a cool and moist climate. 



[38] 



Chapter V 
WHEN TO PLANT 

In one way or another, a garden may be commenced 
at any season. It is never too late to make some 
kind of a start for the future. Spring, of course, 
brings the most opportunity for work, and it is the 
best time for sowing perennials and Campanula medium 
for the next year. 

When desiring in summer to begin a new garden, 
one can devote first efforts to laying out the beds 
after consulting Chapter III on bed space: also a 
seed-bed or nursery may be prepared with the aid 
of suggestions given in Chapter II, in order to stock 
the future garden at a lesser expense than when plants 
are purchased. Important work can be accomplished 
in August, for then is the very best time for planting 
the Poppy, Lily candidum, Peony, and German Iris, 
and for sowing certain hardy annuals as explained 
on page 29. With perennial seeds, the earlier sown 
the better for plants that should give satisfactory 
bloom the next year. 

HARDY PERENNIALS 

May blooming hardy perennials should be moved, 
if possible, in the autumn; the earlier the better in 

[39 1 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

order to become rooted before frost. When the early- 
flowering plants are moved in the spring, it means 
that the first season's bloom will be more or less af- 
fected by the disturbance of the roots. Perennial 
Lupins seem to be an exception to this rule. 

The perennials beginning to bloom by mid-June or 
later may be set out either in the early spring or in 
the fall not later than October 15. This is a safe 
rule, although when occasion requires it, the experi- 
enced gardener often takes his chances, and success- 
fully, with later fall planting. Exceptions to the rule 
for spring and fall planting were just mentioned in 
connection with Lily, Poppy, etc., but, of course, these 
plants may be moved at other times as well. 

THE HARDY ANNUALS 
First Class 
The August-sown hardy annuals of the first class — 
Silene, Bluets, Feverfew, Larkspur, Forget-me-not 
(h. p.), and Anthemis — wintered in the open ground 
or frame, need not to be disturbed until transplanted 
in early April to the garden-bed, or as soon as the 
ground can be dug over and enriched, allowing a day 
for the settling of the soil. 

Where the winter climate is mild, it is also possible 
to transplant them all from the nursery to the garden 
by October 1 (not later for annuals), lest the cold in- 
jure those weakened by moving. As a result, they 

[ 40 ] 



WHEN TO PLANT 

might blossom a week or two earlier than when dis- 
turbed in the spring. However, transplanting them 
to the garden as early as October 1 is usually made 
impossible by the fact that the beds are filled with 
flowering plants at this period. 

At transplanting time a few plants of each variety 
may be left to bloom in the open nursery, where they 
will resow themselves for next year's bloom. In this 
case, if possible, keep at a distance from one another 
the difiPerent colors of Larkspur, so that their seeds 
will not be as likely to mix. The gardener, however, 
may prefer to sow annually his favorite colors, as 
self-sown seeds cannot be relied upon to come true. 

The hardy annuals. Bluets, Silene, and Larkspur, 
when sown in the spring under glass or in the open 
nursery, may be moved when 2 to 4 inches high. 
They don't transplant well if taller. For the purpose 
of replacing the fall-sown Larkspur and Feverfew, these 
same varieties sown in spring can be kept in pots, if 
convenient, to make easier the late transplanting. 

Shirley Poppies must not be transplanted at any 
time. 

Second Class 

The hardy annuals of the second class, Pansies, 
English Daisies, Dianthus Pinks, Snapdragon, Forget- 
me-not alpestris, when sown in August should be trans- 
planted by mid-September to 5 to 6 inches apart in 

[41] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

the cold-frame, or wherever they are to winter. In 
April they may be moved to the garden. If Dian- 
thus and Snapdragon and Forget-me-not are moved in 
early April, it is well to supply them for a while with 
a light protection of leaves or hay in case of a severe 
spring frost. Dianthus is the hardiest of this class, 
and will sometimes survive winter in the open, if not 
moved too late in the fall. 

Campanula medium, when large enough, should be 
transplanted in the open nursery 6 inches apart, and 
again transplanted to the cold-frame in September, 
set 8 or 9 inches apart. By Aprill5 it can be safely 
moved to the garden. 

Third Class 

Spring -Planted Only. — The third class of hardy an- 
nuals, those sown only in spring. Zinnia, etc., although 
classed as hardy, if started early under glass, are on 
this account more tender than when sown in the open. 
They should, therefore, not be set out before May 20, 
when severe frost no longer threatens. If they have 
been sown in the open, they can be transplanted when- 
ever convenient. 

TENDER ANNUALS 

The tender annuals sown under glass should not 
be moved to the garden until after all possibility of 
frost, which is the last of May near New York. 

[ 42 ] 




S to 
— 1 c 



WHEN TO PLANT 



TRANSPLANTING 



Most annuals will invariably live after being trans- 
planted if properly as well as sufficiently watered. 

Enough cannot be said toward urging the gardener 
first to puddle the holes when setting out the stronger- 
rooted plants. The surface of the ground should also 
be watered after the hole is closed over the roots. 

With the small, frail seedlings like Petunia a different 
sort of watering is necessary. First, soak thoroughly 
the surface of the soil, where the small plants are to 
grow; wait five minutes for the water to absorb, and 
then with a finger or stick make holes the depth of 
the rootlets for each plant, gently pressing in the damp 
soil over the roots. Don't sprinkle the newly set seed- 
lings for twenty-four hours, when they will be strong 
enough to stand erect under a light spraying. 

Wlien setting out small plants, like Cosmos, they 
may need to be supported by stakes to be kept erect. 
Instead of tying them at first, an operation which takes 
more time, it is often better to protect and steady each 
one with three twigs until the stem grows strong; by 
this means, too, they are kept safe from trespassing 
cat, dog, or heedless human. When they shall have 
grown larger they can be tied to a stronger stake, if nec- 
essary. The dead-wood removed from shrubbery is 
very useful for this purpose. 

In the spring just before planting time spread a 

[ 43 ] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

good layer of sheep's manure over the bed intended for 
annuals, and have the manure dug under only 2 inches 
deep and no more. It works down fast enough and 
most annuals are shallow-rooted. If the soil is not 
especially rich more sheep's manure and bone-meal 
can be added a Httle later in the season. Some of the 
finest gardens are never given any barnyard manure, 
which is more likely to bring weeds and pests. 

WINTERING OF PERENNIALS AND ANNUALS 

All the hardy perennials in the open nursery and 
the garden need more or less covering during the 
winter months. If available, there is no better pro- 
tection than salt-hay. 

Fall-sown (August to September) Larkspur, Silene 
armeria, Bluets, Feverfew, Anthemis, and Forget-me- 
not, var. palustris, winter just as well in the open as 
in a frame, except in an extremely cold climate. 

Pansies, English Daisies, Snapdragon, and Dianthus 
sown in late August in the open nursery, are trans- 
planted later to frames for the winter, at least near 
New York and northward. 

Campanula medium sown in May or June in the 
open nursery to bloom the following year needs the 
same winter protection as the Pansy. 

Where certain annuals must be wintered in cold 
frames, we should plan so that the frames contain 
none but the plants demanding such protection; then 

[44] 



WHEN TO PLANT 

in spring, just as soon as the frost is out of the ground, 
transplant them to the garden-beds, in order to allow 
for the use of the frame as a nursery for spring-sown 
annuals. 

Plants to be protected in cold-frames may have 
either the glass sash or else a square top made of laths, 
with a 1-inch space between each lath. The latter is 
sufficient protection for Pansies, English Daisies, 
Snapdragon, etc., except in a very cold climate. 
Some fine manure is always worked in around the 
plants, not over them, and a thin layer of hay or leaves 
covers them lightly. The laths keep out the heavy 
snow and the full sunshine, supplying a more even 
temperature than when under glass. The glass cover 
needs to be lifted on mild winter days to prevent 
overheating, but if it is not lowered at night, damage 
may result. The wooden top needs no attention; it 
should only be removed when the plants are ready 
for the spring growth. 

In the northern climate, where snow forms a winter 
covering, it is considered to be about the safest sort 
of protection. Biennial Canterbury Bells are some- 
times wintered in the open with manure above the 
roots, but not covering the plant itself, leaving the 
crown of the plant to be protected by brush or boughs 
from the heavy pressure of snow. 



[45] 



Chapter VI 
WHEN THEY BLOOM 

THE PERIODS 

In the region of New York City at least, the garden 
bloom may be divided into eight flowering periods, be- 
ginning about May 1. 

If, however, the beds are to he filled with color, con- 
tinuously during the long season, which ends only with 
frost, then usually space must be saved somewhere by 
the omission of at least one of these periods. 

Accordingly, the opening time in some gardens is 
generally the second period. May 22, when German 
Iris appears, and the late Tulips are still blooming; 
though it is often possible to include the first period 
by the use of a profusion of early Tulips, which oc- 
cupy no space when their flowers are gone. 

The other plants that have ceased to bloom when the 
German Iris begins, belong to the first period, and as 
a rule are deemed eligible only for the spring garden 
set apart by itself. Ordinarily this plan is preferable, 
as early May flowers are mostly low growing and 
small-flowered, necessitating too much of each variety 
before the color effect is obtained, and therefore making 

[46] 



WHEN THEY BLOOM 

them impracticable for the garden crowded with plants 
of the other periods. 

However, early spring perennials may have their 
places in the main garden when the owner is to be at 
home in May, and absent during some later periods. 
The flowers that will bloom only during his absence 
can then be omitted, allowing the use of that space for 
the earliest bloomers. 

In a colder climate, where plants make a later start, 
the blooming periods arrive in closer succession, the 
earlier periods almost blending in one period; the 
frost comes earlier, the season is shorter; therefore 
in the North planting for continuous bloom is not as 
complicated a task; there are fewer periods for which 
to provide and a lesser number of varieties of plants 
required. 

First Period * 

The most useful plants for early spring are the fol- 
lowing: 

May 1-22 

Doronicum. Hyacinths. 

Early Tulips. Arabis. 

Phlox divaricata. Mertensia Vir. 

Phlox subulata. Pansies. 

Bleeding-Heart. English Daisy. 

Forget-me-not. Hardy Candytuft. 
Primroses — Primulas. 

* The flowers of early May, which is the first period, will be more thor- 
oughly considered in a later chapter on "Spring Gardens." 

[47 1 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

Second Period 
In this season of late May, the Pansies, EngHsh 
Daisies, Forget-me-nots are already edging the beds, 
and the Darwin and Cottage Tulips of every rainbow 
tint are adding wonderful colors. The garden is soon 
radiant with 

May 22 

Valerian officinalis. Ranunculus acris fl. pi. 

German Iris. Columbine, tall vars. 

Lemon Lily. Gas Plant — Fraxinella. 

Oriental Poppy. Pyrethrum hybrid. 

Lupin polyphyUus. Salvia pratensis. 

Silene armeria. Campanula persicifolia. 

Bluets (Corn-flower). Peony. 
Sweet Rocket. 

Third Period 
When some of the foregoing have passed and others 
are lingering, i. e., Pyrethrum, Peony, Lupin poly.. 
Columbine, Salvia, Campanula persic, Silene, and 
Bluets, then arrive the 

June 5 
Sweet William. Anchusa Ital., Opal. 

Lupin poly. Moerheimi. (Enothera Youngi. 

Campanula medium. 

Fourth Period 
This week is the richest in hardy bloom, those of the 
last period remaining a while with the newly arrived. 

[48] 



Plate VIII 




From photographs by The Morris Studio 



Curving grass paths 
Meadow Club, Southampton, L. I. 



WHEN THEY BLOOM 

June 20 

Delphinium (all). Feverfew. Agrostemma cor. 

Coreopsis. Candytuft. Anthemis. 

Foxglove. Lily candidum. Lupin, annual. 

Lychnis Chal. Gaillardia. Sweet Alyssum. 

Larkspur. 

Fifth Period 
Indispensable at this period are the Anthemis, Fever- 
few, and Larkspur, of which one variety at least should 
appear profusely in every bed. Now or possibly a 
little earlier the following perennials may be expected: 

July 1* 

Hollyhocks. Japanese Iris. Achillea Pearl. 

Shasta Daisy. Phlox Lingard. Platycodon. 

Gladioli — Planted May 1. 

Up to this time the bloom of the early spring-sown 
annuals has been but a weak suggestion of the color 
to come. The time for anticipating the full glory of 
the annual family (spring-sown) varies from July 1 
to August 1, depending on climate, germinating time 
and place. Sweet Alyssum and Candytuft, sown 
April 15, reach their perfection by June 20. 

Sixth Period 

Unless spring-sown annuals have been early pushed, 
and unless Larkspurs are plentiful, the mid-July bloom 
may wane at this time, until the late Phloxes and a 
few other perennials shall appear toward the end of 
the month. 

*Iii eur uncertain climate these dates are somewhat variable. 

[49] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

July 20 
Phlox. Rudbeckia purpurea. 

Veronica, long subsess. Gypsophila paniculata. 

Dahlia, cactus, etc. Echinops sphseroceph. 

Eryngium amethystinum. Cannas, pink and white. 

Statice latifolia. All the annuals. 

Seventh Period 
Late August has a variety of perennials that are 
especially free-flowering, giving unusual color to this 
period. 

August 25 

Asters, hardy. Helenium, Riverton Gem. 

Pyrethrum uliginosum. Helenium, Riverton Beauty. 

Sedum spectabile. Anemone Japonica. 

Salvia azurea and S. Pitcheri. Eupatorium coelestinum. 

Eighth Period 
September 15 

Monkshood Wilsoni. Chrysanthemum (Sept. var.). 
Gladioh, planted July. Long-blooming annuals continued. 

In October the Chrysanthemums are the only worth- 
while perennials. The indefatigable annuals, such 
as Zinnias, Petunias, Marigolds, Verbenas, Ageratum, 
etc., are wearing a rusty appearance, making one feel 
that after all frost is not an unwelcome visitor this 
month. His blight saves us from brooding too long 
over a tired garden, when it is more important to be 
at work cleaning up and preparing for another year. 

[ 50 ] 



eOLOB 



MONTH 
HEIGHT 



Chapter VII 
WHAT TO PLANT 

Single star indicates desirable plants not appearing in the charts at the end 
of the volume. Double star indicates a useful plant for separate spring garden. 

HARDY PERENNIALS 

In planning a garden, read carefully to become 
familiar with names and habits of these plants. 

White Achillea ptarmica, var. The Pearl : Double Sneeze- July i 
wort. A rapid spreader. Yearly the outer shoots ^ ^^' 
need to be removed to keep the clump within its 
limited square. In the third year, lift the clump and 
renourish the soil. Transplant early in the spring. 
Thrives in any good soil. Needs staking. Use only in 
very large beds, preferring Phlox Lingard instead for 
smaller beds, as the latter occupies less space and is 
easier to handle. 

AcoNiTUM. See Monkshood. 

Garnet Agrostemma, var. coTonaria (Lychnis coronaria): july-Sept. 

^^'*^ Dusty Miller, Rose Campion, Mullein Pmk. Woolly, ^J^ ft. 
silvery foliage; occupies but little space. Keep stock 
on hand from self-sown seedlings. Prefers sun, and 
soil not too heavy. Three or four plants 4 inches 

[51] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA „„_ 

MONTH 
COIjOR _ _ HEIGHT 

apart to make a clump in small bed. Use plentifully, 
especially the white variety. Blooms all summer. 

Bl^g Anchusa Italica, vars. Dropmore and Opal: Sea June 
Bugloss. The Opal is the lightest blue and most 
beautiful of all. Plant in groups of two or three plants 
8 inches apart. Self-sown seedlings may be removed 
to nursery to develop and returned to garden two 
years later. Succeeds in sun, any rich loam. Part of 
its coarse lower foliage may be removed when crowd- 
ing other plants. It is best to move it in spring. 

White Anemone Japonica : Japanese Windflower. Single, Sept. 
Pink waxlike plants. Var. Whirlwind is semidouble and 
larger; also other varieties. Thrives in any rich soil, 
not too heavy. Increases by root and grows in same 
position for years if liberally fed. In cold climate 
needs a winter covering of 3 inches. Use at least six 
small plants to make a clump. Transplant only in 
spring. 

Yellow Anthemis tinctoHa, var. Kelwayi: Yellow Mar- July 1 
Creamy guerite; var. alha (catalogue), cream- white. Bushy 
plant. Grows in any soil. Seeds self-sown in abun- 
dance. Sun or partial shade. Rarely requires winter 
covering. Self-sown seedlings found in September 
make good plants next season. Treat as a hardy 
annual; sow in August or September, and discard 
after first season's bloom. Stake when a foot high. 

[52] 




WHAT TO PLANT 

COLOR ^ HEIGHT 

Aquilegia. See Columbine. 

White ** Arabis a/pzna; Rock Cress. A rock plant; forms April-May 
a mat. Joetter use it m separate spring garden, bun 
or semishade. Prop, by seed, preferably by cuttings 
or division. Rapid spreader. Twelve small plants to 
make a clump or mat 1 foot square. 

Blue Aster Novcb Anglice: New England Aster, Mich- Aug.-Sept. 

^^^^ aelmas Daisy, or Starwort. Choose varieties bloom- 
Purple ing late August to September and 4 feet and over. 
Use plenty of White Queen and richest shades of blue, 
purple, and pink. Among the best are Novob AnglioBy 
purple; Mrs. F. W. Raynor, purple; Novcb AnglicB roscBy 
also rubra; William Bowman, rose; Lil Fardell, rose. 
In ordering from a nursery, one plant is so small that 
six at least should be ordered to make one clump, 
planted about 3 inches apart. Thrives in any soil; 
spreads rapidly by root. Needs staking early. Prop, 
by seed or division. 

Bachelor's-Button. See Ranunculus. 

Bellflower, Japanese. See Platycodon. 

Blanket-Flower. See Gaillardia. 

Bluebells. See Mertensia. 

White Campanula medium, also C. calycanthema : Canter- June 15 
p-"^ bury Bell. Biennial. Single and double. Thrives in ^"^ "' 
rich soil. Var. calycanthema is cup-and-saucer type. 

[53]. 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^^ 

COLOR HEIGHT 

Sow May to bloom June of next year only, for three 
weeks. Plant them generously over the garden. 

■Ctrl .. Campanula persicifolia : Peach Bell. Tufted f oli- June 1 
Blue age at base of long stems. Plant rather close to- 
gether, four to six in a group, and use freely. Increases 
by root. Prop, by seed or root. Needs sun and light 
soil. 

Campion, Rose. See Agrostemma coronaria. 

■rxn.. ** Candytuft: Iberis sempervirens. Evergreen foli- May 15 
age. Six small plants 4 inches apart to make a clump "^' 
or mat. Rapid spreader. 

Tj- 1 Canna. The new white, also pink Cannas should July-Sept. 
White be used moderately in a large garden. Nothing is 
more effective. Place at ends of broad, long bed, 
near centre line. 

Canterbury Bells. See Campanula medium. 

Pink Chrysanthemum, var. Aster or large-flowering Pom- Sept. 15 
White pon. For the garden of continuous bloom choose only 
Yellow those blooming by mid-September. Certain nurseries 
offer these large-flowered earlier bloomers in beautiful 
shades of rose, yellow, and white. Dislike very heavy 
soil. In some cold gardens they do not winter well, 
in which case give them cold-frame protection, and 
move with roots well "balled." Always give light 
covering, hay preferably; they will not stand heavy 
covering. Most of the hardy Chrysanthemums, when 

[54] 



WHAT TO PLANT »,onth 

COLOR . • •(> J HEIGHT 

growing close to a south wall, and occasionally lifted 
for renourishment of the soil, will generally live for 
years, at least in New Jersey and southward. To 
make a good clump, set three small plants (shoots) 
8 inches apart. When a foot high, pinch back to in- 
duce branching. Tobacco dust is the best treatment 
when black aphids attack them. Prop, by division or 
cuttings. 

Chrysanthemum coccineum. See Pyrethrum, hybrid. 

* Chrysanthemum uliginosum. See Pyrethrum uli- 
ginosum. 

Chrysanthemum max. See Shasta Daisy. 

White Columbine: Aquilegia. Use the taller varieties. May-June 
Blue Prefers light rich, deep, well-drained soil, and thrives ^~^ ^^• 
Pink in sun or partial shade. When allowed to self-sow, 
the seedlings are abundant. Keep plenty of the 
strongest of these young plants in best colors for nurs- 
ery stock, as Columbine is not long-lived. Some gar- 
deners prefer to use more Lupins and hybrid Pyre- 
thrum than Columbine, because the latter is less ef- 
fective in the garden color scheme. Prevent large 
annuals from smothering the Columbine. Don't plant 
it in garden-bed until two years old. "To have the 
most vigorous and beautiful plants the two varieties 
— mixed Longspurs and var. vulgaris — should grow near 
together: then select the strongest of the seedlings 

[55] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 



MONTH 
HEIGHT 



found about them, discarding all inferior plants and 
colors. The white vulgaris parent will always have 
white seedlings, no matter what form or color the 
other parent." If they are to be transplanted in 
early spring keep plenty of earth about the root. 
Fall planting of Columbine is preferable. 

CoNEFLOWER. See Rudbeckia purpurea. 

CoNOCMNTTM coslestinum . See Eupatorium coelestinum. 

Yellow Coreopsis lanceolata, var. grandiflora: Tickseed. June-Oct. 
Very hardy and increases rapidly by root and by ^ ' 
self -sowing. Likes almost any good soil not too heavy. 
Cut fading flowers and it will bloom till frost. Keep 
it in front of plants the height of Zinnia. 

Various Dahlia: Plant but one or two tubers. Hollow July-Oct. 
ground around stalk to hold water, water frequently. 
Plant after mid-May 3 feet apart. 

Daisy, Giant. See Pyrethrum uliginosum. 

Daisy, Shasta. See Shasta Daisy. 

Blue Delphinium Chinense: Chinese Larkspur. Light and June- 
^^^*® dark blue, also white. Fine feathery foliage. If sown ^?}- ^^ 
in May or June will make strong plants the following 
year. Blossoms three times during summer. Plant 
near front of bed. Feed once during summer to help 
later blooms. Sun and rich soil. 

Blue Delphinium eZafwm; Bee Larkspur, hardy Larkspur, June- 
tallest variety. l^\^^ 

[56] 



WHAT TO PLANT ^^^ 

X)LOB HEIGHT 

Delphinium, Hybrid. Lovely shades of blue. 

Blue Delphinium formosum, var. ccelestinum, also hella- 4 ft. 
donna: Oriental Larkspur. Deep to light blue, not so 
tall. Also new white variety. 

White Delphinium grandiflorum, var. album, 2 to 3 feet. 2-3 ft. 
Delphiniums need well-drained, rich soil, not too 
clayey. Keep manure from contact with roots and 
sprinkle coal ashes around base of stalk in November 
to protect it from insect enemies. Plant in garden 
in second year. Cut back to ground each fading 
flower-stalk and apply liquid sheep's manure in mid- 
summer to insure strength for later blooms. If the 
large Delphiniums are allowed to flower three times 
during the season without ample nourishment to sustain 
vigor, they may die out that fall. When plant begins 
to deteriorate, divide it as early as possible in spring. 

DiCTAMNUS. See Gas Plant. 

Digitalis. See Foxglove. 

Dusty Miller. See Agrostemma. 

Bjjjg * EcHiNOPS sphcerocephalus : Round Head Globe July, early 
Thistle. Tallest variety, two or three small plants ^ 
together. Use only in large garden for additional 
variety. Prop, by dividing. 

Blue * "EiBYNGTOM amethystium : Sea Holly. Three small July 
plants, 6 inches apart, to make a clump. Use it only 
in large beds. 

[57] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

MONTH 
COLOR , , _ HEIGHT 

Blue EuPATORiuM ccelestinum {Conoclinum coelestinum) : Sept. l 
Mistflower. Flower resembles the Ageratum. Plant ^^ ^^• 
remains dormant for some time after all others appear 
in the spring, when it is difficult to detect life in roots 
and for this reason it is often discarded for dead. 
Keep permanent stake above it. Spreads rapidly by 
root and is long-lived. Protect slightly in winter. 
Six to ten plants to a clump. Prop, by cuttings and 
suckers. 

Evening Primrose. See CEnothera. 

False Dragon's-Head. See Physostegia. 

White Feverfew, Double Camomile: Matricaria. Use June-Sept. 

2 ft 

double white variety only. Sows itself freely and 
these seedlings are hardy and transplantable at any 
time, sun or semi-shade. Bushy plant. Cut back 
fading flowers to force later moderate bloom. It is 
classed with hardy perennials, but not to be depended 
upon for second-year bloom. Better treat it as a 
hardy annual and sow in fall to bloom late June. For 
best August to September blossom, sow seeds again 
in spring instead of relying on the later blooms of the 
older fall-sown plant which will have made its best 
showing in June and July. 

Blue Forget-me-not: Myosotis palustris, var. semper- May-June 
fiorens. Sow August for bloom the next year. After 
a summer's bloom lift the old plants and replace them, 
after renourishing soil, with the numerous seedlings to 

[58] 



WHAT TO PLANT ^^^^ 

COLOB HEIGHT 

be found in the vicinity. This suggestion is made in 
connection with the plants forming an edging to a bed 
which must be kept neat and straight. 

Pink Foxglove: Digitalis, hybrid. White and pink pre- June 
White ferred. Any rich soil. Sun or partial shade. Keep in ^^ ^^ 
nursery the plants less than 6 inches in diameter. The 
self-sown plant is the hardiest. In a severe climate 
winter in cold-frame. Will not tolerate heavy winter 
covering over the top. Be prepared to replace it after 
its third year. If not allowed to go to seed side shoots 
will appear for next year. Cut fading flowers for a 
second bloom. Prop, by seed. 

Fraxinella. See Gas Plant. 

Yellow Gailiardia grandiflora: Blanket-Flower. Easily june-Oct. 
with grown, but sometimes winter-killed. Give heavy 2 ft. 
Red covering. Set six plants 4 to 5 inches apart, to form 
disk Qjjg group. Grows in any soil, in sun. Keep stock 
in nursery. 

Garden Heliotrope. See Valerian. 

lYhite ^-^^ Plant: Dictamnus fraxinella. Use more of |^ i . 
P"ik the white variety. One of the most desirable of May's 3-4 ft. 
hardy plants. Give rich, deep soil and sun. May 
outlive two or three generations if left undisturbed. 
Leaves and flowers have peculiar pungent odor when 
crushed. Use one plant in small space. In a large bed 
two or three plants 1 foot apart. Slow growing. Does 

[59] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

MONTH 
COLOR n M 1 1 • 1 P HEIGHT 

not blossom well until second or third year after plant- 
ing. Improves with age, and when well-developed 
forms a large bushy plant full of bloom. When there 
are a sufficient number of strong Gas Plants in the 
garden fewer Lupins will be needed. The latter are 
beautiful, but the plants are comparatively short- 
lived, requiring to be oftener replaced. 

White *Gypsophila paniculata: Baby's Breath. Bushy. July 
Place next to a spreading plant so that after its bloom 
the space may be partly covered. A line of Ewpa- 
torium coelestinum encircling it, not too close, conceals 
well the empty space, when Gypsophila dies down. 

Yellow * Helenium: Sneezeweed, var. Riverton Gem. Gold Aug. late 
tinged with reddish streaks. Var, Riverton Beauty, 
yellow with dark cone. Use six or seven nursery plants, 
set close together for one group. Stake early. 

Yellow * Hemekocallis, var. fiava: Sweet-scented Lemon May-June 
Lily. Needs deep, light, rich soil. Spreads rapidly. 
Six plants to start a group. 

Hesperis matronalis: See Rocket. 

■^Yhitg Hollyhock: Althea rosea. Single or double, as July 
JJed preferred. Needs deep, rich soil and sun. Transplant 

X ink 

Yellow in spring only. Give treatment of Bordeaux Mixture 
early if brown spots appear. Needs heavy winter 
covering where climate is severe. Requires staking. 
Cut stalks down to ground when finished blooming. 

[60] 



OOIX>B 



WHAT TO PLANT 

MONTH 



HEIGHT 



When lifting it dig deep for long tap-roots. Self-sown 
plants that have not been disturbed make the finest 
specimens. 

Iberis sempervirens. See Hardy Candytuft. 

Various Iris Germanica: Fleur-de-lis. Six small plants to May 20 
start a clump. Enrich bed with layers of manure, '^^^' 
avoiding contact of roots with manure. When it must 
be moved, July or August is the best time, in order 
to insure good bloom the next year. However, 
crowded beds may prevent transplanting until after 
frost. Prop, by division. 

Various Iris, JAPANESE: IHs Kwmpferi. Use six small plants July 1 
to start a clump. Water freely. Enrich well, but ^ 
keep manure from contact with roots of all Irises. 
Occasionally needs lifting and dividing. Starting 
plants from seeds is not advisable, as it takes so long. 

Larkspur, Hardy. See Delphinium. 

Pink *LiATRis,var.p2/cno5iac/i2/a: Blazing Star. Purplish July 
pink spikes. This plant is not always popular on ac- ^ ^^• 
count of its peculiar tone of pink. 

White *LiLiuM auratum: Gold-banded or Japan Lily. July, late 

Gold White with gold bands and purplish spots. The finest * ft-' 

of the lilies, but lives only about three years. May be 

planted in spring or late fall. Prop, by offsets or scales. 

Plant in sand with base of bulb 8 inches below surface. 

[61] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

MONTH 
COIiOB , ... HEIGHT 

White LiLTUM candidum : Madonna lily, Annunciation June, late 
Lily. Should be planted between August 1 and *~6 ^*' 
September 1, preferably August 1. Will multiply in 
rich, deep, well-drained soil. Cannot survive much 
shading from surrounding plants. Often does its best 
in rooty soil. Set this bulb with only 2 inches of soil 
above its crown. Surround bulb with thin layer of 
sand. 

Pink and * LiLiUM speciosum,, vars. ruhrum and Melpomene. August 
White Like Lilium candidum will increase in congenial soil, ^~* "• 
May be planted in late fall or spring. Surround all 
Lily bulbs with 3^ inch of sand. Put manure 23^ inches 
beneath bulb. Keep manure from near contact with 
bulbs. Set Lilium speciosum same depth as L. auratum. 
The above-named Lilies are the most popular of the 
many listed in the catalogues, 

*LiLY, Lemon. See Hemerocallis. 

White LupiNUS polyphyllus, var. Moerheimi. Appears ten June 
■^"^ days later than the other variety. In congenial soil ^"^ "• 
both Lupins will give a second bloom, soon after the 
first flowers are cut off. Same habit as the following. 

Blue LupiNUS polyphyllus: Lupin, pea-shaped flower. May-June 
White Not long-lived. Keep stock in nursery. After the ^"^ ^*- 
third or fourth year it is apt to disappear. Needs 
6 inches of winter covering in cold climate, and re- 
move two-thirds of this covering in late March, It 
does its best in rich, rather heavy soil, semi-shade, 

[62] 



WHAT TO PLANT 

COtOR HEIGHT 

and above all it must not be allowed to dry out — 
more dependent on moisture than any other hardy. 
Sows itself freely. Is killed by lime and Bordeaux 
Mixture. In a warm, dry climate, and in a sunny 
position, if possible, give it the shade protection of 
larger plants. Of all the bloom of this period there 
is nothing more strikingly beautiful than the Lupin. 
In some gardens it makes a fair bloom a year from 
the time sown. But sometimes it is not fully grown 
until the second year after sowing, depending on the 
treatment. Good soil and sufficient moisture hasten 
development. 

White * Lychnis Chalcedonica, var. alba : Maltese Cross. June, late 
Where tall, white bloom is needed, this plant for 
variety is effective in groups of six or eight plants 
closely set. Thrives in any sunny position. The red 
variety is of a tone that clashes with many colors of 
that period and had better be avoided. Prop, by seed 
or division in spring. 

Maltese Cross. See Lychnis Chalcedonica. 

Marguerite, Yellow. See Anthemis. 

Matricaria. See Feverfew. 

Meadow-Sage. See Salvia pratensis. 

Blue **Mertensia: Blue Bells. An exquisite sky-blue May 1 
flower tinted pink. Gives plants a heavy marker as ^^ ™* 
foliage drops off in June. Set plants 6 inches apart, 
in line or group. 

[63] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^ 

COLOB BEIGHT 

Michaelmas Daisy. See Aster. 

MiSTFLOWER. See Ewpatorium coelestinum. July-Aug. 

o 1 , 3-4 ft. 

Blue Monkshood : Aconite, Acomtum, vars. iStork s, au- 

tumnale, napellus. These are the earlier deep blue 

varieties and follow Delphiniums' first bloom. 

Blue Group six small plants to form a clump. Sun or 

part shade. Prop, by division. 

Monkshood: Aconite, Aconitum Wilsoni. The best Sept., middle 
variety for September. Grows in sun or shade. Self- 
sows freely. This deep violet-blue September peren- 
nial helps to enliven the mid-September garden when 
other flowers begin to look a trifle rusty. It follows 
immediately after hardy Aster, which bloom is gener- 
ally over by September 7 (near New York). For 
black blight use Bordeaux Mixture freely around 
crown, and spray leaves and buds when stalls begin 
to turn yellow before or at blooming time. Often 
dies out after five years. Use six small plants for 
a full clump. Prop, by division or seed. 

Mullein Pink. See Agrostemma. 

Myosotis palustris, var. semperflorens. See Forget- 
me-not. 

Obedience. See Physostegia. 

Lemon (Enothera, var. Youngi : Evening Primrose, Sun- June 1 

Yellow (Jrops. Thrives in sun or partial shade. Light, rich ^^ ™' 
Wnite 

soil. The white varieties, 0. ccespitosa (10 inches) 

[64] 



MONTH 
HEIGHT 



WHAT TO PLANT 

COLOR 

and 0. speciosa (15 inches), are especially desirable 
for beds in semi-shade. Use four small plants to 
make one group. 

Various * P^onia: Peony. Double, semidouble, and single. June 
Whenever it must be moved, August is the best time ^~^ ^** 
to transplant in order to insure some bloom the next 
season, but this course is impossible if beds are full 
of bloom in August. Use only in very large beds. 
After roses, no plant requires such deep, rich soil. 
Roots go deep. The finest Peonies grow in beds where 
the soil is prepared to the depth of 3 feet, with two 
or three layers of manure running through it. Eight 
inches of heavy clay at the bottom helps to retain 
moisture. Sun or half-shade. 

Peach Bells. See Campanula persicifolia. 

Blue ** Phlox (^^^'ar^ca^a. Exquisite shade sky-blue. Set May, early 
twelve to fifteen small plants 3 inches apart to form a 10 iu- 
clump measuring 1 square foot. Spreads rapidly. 
Combines well with early pink or light-yellow Tulips. 
The Laphami var. is taller and later. 

^^j|.g Phlox, var. Miss Lingard. It takes three or four j^^^^ ^j 
shoots to make a fair clump. The next year it will 'ater 
have doubled its size. In sunshine and rich soil with 
some moisture, if fading flowers are removed, it will 
have several blooming periods during the summer. 
Also blooms in semi- shade, as do all Phloxes. 

[65 1 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

MONTH 
COIX3R , HEIGHT 

Various Phlox paniculata. The well-known, late-blooming July, late 
variety. Not as frequent a bloomer as Miss Lingard. ^ 
Allow about twelve stalks to a clump. Lift plant to 
enrich soil every three years in the fall. Cut off 
fading flowers to bring second bloom. The richer the 
soil, the better the bloom. Don't let it suffer from 
drought. 

Pink * Physostegia Virginica : False Dragon's-Head, Aug., late 
^^^*^ Obedience. Two shades of pink, also white. Tu- ^"^ ^*- 
bular flowers massed at the top of a spike which is 
4 to 5 feet tall. The blossom suggests a little orchid. 
Roots spread rapidly. A lovely flower for picking, 
but it is not altogether desirable for a full garden 
because of its spreading habit and its weak tone of 
pink. The brilliant pink perennial Asters blooming at 
the same time are preferable if color effect is the aim 
of the' gardener. This plant grows best in rich, light 
soil and sun. Use only in a garden where there is 
ample space to spare. Prop, by division in spring. 

Blue Platycodon: Balloon Flower, Japanese Bellflower. July 
^ ® Rich blue, also white, and white mixed with lavender. 
The roots run deep and the soil needs to be deep and 
rich and not too heavy. Slight winter protection is 
required. Heavily covered with blossoms for three 
weeks. Needs staking. Prop, in spring by seed or 
division. In planting, don't bend long roots, but let 
them go straight down. 

[66] 



WHAT TO PLANT „^^ 

COLOR -n r\ T> HEIGHT 

Pink Poppy, Oriental: Papaver orientale. After the May, late 
^^^ second year it sends up numerous strong flowers. ^ ^^' 
Avoid using the old vermilion-red. If the rich deep 
blood-red variety cannot be obtained, don't have red at 
all. Order the lovely pink variety, of which there is 
now an abundance in some nurseries. Don't depend 
on starting it from seed, as the color results are too un- 
certain. After blooming, the foliage dies to the ground, 
reappearing in a small growth in September. The 
tap-root goes deep and the soil should be rich deep 
loam. Requires sun. Best transplanted in July, if 
possible, when moving is necessary. With very small 
plants, set four together. 

Primrose, Evening. See (Enothera. 

Various **Primrose, Spring. Primula. Great variety. Use April-May 
for separate spring garden. "^' 

Pink Pyrethrum, Hybrid : Chrysanthemum coccineum. May, late 
.^.^ Single and double; white and several shades of red ' 

and of pink. Many prefer the single variety especially 
because the flowers are not as heavy and therefore 
more apt to keep an erect position without staking. 
There is nothing more welcome in the early garden 
than a quantity of these daisy-like flowers which, in 
good soil, sun, and with occasional generous watering 
and cutting of fading bloom, will remain in blossom 
nearly a month. Easily raised from seed, it sows 
itself freely. Don't set plants in garden until their 

[67] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA „__ 

MONTH 
COIiOB ^ , ^ HKIGHT 

third year, as bloom of young plants is unsatisfactory 
and they had better be in the full sunshine of the 
nursery with nothing to prevent development. Guard 
against the smothering of the Pyrethrum by large an- 
nuals. If bloom must be had from young plants, 
group three or four close together to make one plant. 
They are prop, by division, as well as by seed. 

White *Pyrethrum uUginosum {Chrysanthemum uligino- Aug., late 
sum): Giant Daisy. Rapid spreader in rich light soil 
and sun. Resembles a large Daisy. Twelve plants to 
a clump. Prop, by division or seed, or by suckers. 

Yellow * Ranunculus acris, var. flore pleno: The real Bach- May, late 

2 ft 

elor's-Button. Keep spreading roots cut back to a 
limited square, possibly in a clump 2 by 2 feet. Oc- 
casionally change position or renew soil. Use only in a 
large bed as it is a rapid spreader. Set out in groups 
of eighteen plants. 

Rock Cress. See Arabis. 

Wliite Rocket Sweet : Hesperis matronalis. Sweet-scented, June 1 
resembles Phlox, rapid spreader. White variety pref- 
erable. 

Rose Campion. See Agrostemma. 

Pink RuDBECKiA purpurea (Echinacea purpurea): Cone- July, middle 
flower. This large, deep-pink flower with its heavy 
foliage is effective and worth planting where there is 
room for it. Especially as at this season there are few 

[68] 



3 ft. 



5 ft. 



WHAT TO PLANT "o^™ 

HEIGHT 



COLOB 



tall perennials in bloom. To form one plant, set three 
small plants 8 inches apart. Prop, by seed or division. 
Needs good soil and sun. May bloom six weeks. 

Sage. See Salvias. 

Blue Salvia azurea, and S. Pitcheri: Pitcher's Sage. Sept. 1 
Grows in rich deep soil and sun. The former is sky-blue. 
The latter deeper blue. Set four nursery plants 5 
inches apart to make a clump. Black roots have the 
appearance of being dead and do not sprout till late 
spring, so the plant is ever in danger of being discarded 
by the heedless digger. Keep permanent marker over 
it. Stake early, as its stalk is slim and inclined to bend. 
This lovely flower is not used enough. It looks well 
with hardy Asters. 

Blue Salvia pratensis : Meadow-Sage. The deep-blue May, late 

... s ft 
spikes are 3 feet high when plant is established in its 

third year. Strong pungent odor when handled. 

Shows well next to white Gas Plant or White Pyreth- 

rum. Sows itself freely. Keep a small stock on hand in 

nursery. Needs rich loamy soil, sun or partial shade. 

Set three small plants 6 inches apart. 

* Santolina incana : Lavender Cotton. Silvery June-Oct. 
green, evergreen foliage. Bushy. One foot diameter. ^ ^*' 
Four small plants to start a clump. It needs to be 
kept pinched back into a shapely form. 

Sea Bugloss. See Anchusa. 

[69] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

MONTH 
COLOR _ _ HEIGHT 

Pink * Sedum spectabile : Showy Stonecrop. Broad, light- Aug., late 
green, leathery foliage. Large, flat-headed flowers. ^^ ^• 
Increases by root. Leave undisturbed for some years. 
Plants are bushy and take up some space, but a few 
are desirable for the August garden. Avoid the palest 
pink variety. Propagate by division. Set two or 
three nursery plants together to form one plant. 

White Shasta Daisy: Chrysanthemum, vars. maximum, July-Sept 

Q tf 

Alaska, and King Edward VII. Often bear flowers 
standing 23^ feet high. Increases by root in congenial 
soil. At this season few plants are more effective, 
and later it blooms intermittently till mid-September. 
Prop, by seeds, division, or suckers. Place three or 
four small plants near together to make one good-sized 
plant. 

Sneezeweed. See Helenium. 

Sneezewort. See Achillea, PearL 

Starwort. See Aster. 

Blue *Statice latifolia: Broad-leaved Sea-Lavender. July, late 

2 ft 

Bloom suggests Gypsophila except in color. Set one 
plant by itseK. Don't disturb it. Bloom strong only 
after being established two years. Bushy when in 
bloom. 

Stonecrop. See Sedum. 

Sweet Rocket. See Rocket. 
[70] 



WHAT TO PLANT 

COLOR HEIGHT 

Pink Sweet William, London Tufts : Dianthus barbatus. june, early 
Red ^^^ ^"^^' Newport pink, deep rose, also the light pink, ^^ ^°- 
white, and crimson varieties. Avoid mixed colored 
flowers. It is well to plant the white variety some- 
times next to pink or crimson. The plant is not long- 
lived, but is freely self-sown and a supply in the nurs- 
ery is always necessary. It thrives best in sun and 
in a rich soil that is not too heavy. In clay soil or 
in prolonged dampness it sometimes "damps off.'* 
Should have thick winter covering of leaves or hay 
and some coarse manure about the base of stalks, 
leaving tops exposed. 

Thistle, Globe. See Echinops. 

TicKSEED. See Coreopsis. 

White Valerian officinalis: Garden Heliotrope. This is May 
the old-fashioned variety. Use a few clumps, for its 
delicate beauty as well as for the sake of the fra- 
grance. Cats sometimes seek it and destroy it by lying 
in the low foliage. Subject to beetle pest. Use twelve 
plants to make a clump. Prop, by seed or division. 
Any good soil. 
Blue * Veronica longifolia, var. subsessile: Speedwell, juiy 
long-leaved Veronica. Blue spikes are 3 feet tall, ^ ^*' 
when well established in rich soil and not allowed to 
dry out. It is the showiest of the Veronicas. In a 
cold climate, early spring is the safest time to move 
it. Rich loam and sun. Prop, by division. Use three 

[71] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA „„^ 

MONTH 
COLOR 111 1 HEIGHT 

or four small plants close together to make one good 
plant. 

** Viola cornuta : Horned Violet. Use only where ,yr r» «. 
Blue , ... . . May-Oct. 

Yellow considerable moisture is possible and a shady position. 8 in. 

White ^jjy gQQ^ sQJi Prop, by seed and division. Increases 
rapidly by root; clumps should be separated annually. 
WiNDFLOWER. See Anemone Japonica. 



72 



Chapter Vm 

ANNUALS 

Single star indicates desirable though shorter-lived annuals not named in 
charts at end of the volume. 

MONTFI 

^T^T, MOST OF THESE ANNUALS BLOOM TILL FROST height 

Blue Ageratum conyozoides: Floss Flower. Half-hardy June-Oct. 
White annual. Use the compact, large-flowered variety, 
"Perfection," for a neat edge; there are other taller 
varieties for a looser edging. Set 8 to 12 inches apart. 
Start under glass not later than mid-March for June 
bloom. Will grow in partial shade, but does better 
in sun. Blooms abundantly till frost. 

Wliite Alyssum, Sweet, Madwort: Alyssum maritimum. June-Oct. 
Hardy annual. Variety "Little Gem" makes a lovely 
compact edging 6 inches high. A newer and dwarfer 
kind is A. compactum procumbens, useful when a very 
narrow dwarf edging is required. In August cut back 
Sweet Alyssum about half-way in order to have a 
vigorous bloom until frost. Sow in April or May. It 
will bloom five or six weeks after sowing and flower 
continuously till frost. Grows anywhere, preferably 
in light soil and sun. 

Anthemis. See Perennial list, but treat as hardy 
annual. 

[73] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

MONTH 
COLOR o. o 1 HEIGHT 

Antirrhinum. See Snapdragon. 

White * Aster, China Aster : Callistephus kortensis Chi- Aug. 
Pink nensis. Tender annual. The many varieties make se- ** 

Purple lection diflScult. The branching Peony-flowered of 
August and the late branching Aster for early Septem- 
ber are among the most popular. Require sun and 
rich, light soil. Late in July, to prevent approach of 
beetle (if subject to it), spread ashes over soil at base 
of plants. If black beetles attack them, pick them off 
by hand, drop into kerosene water, and make sure they 
are dead. To begin with, it is well to grow samples 
of a dozen of each variety of Aster in the nursery or 
picking garden, and in this way decide upon favorites. 
Start under glass by April 1, or in garden in mid-May. 
They remain in bloom about three weeks. Enrich 
with wood-ashes, or sheep manure. When subject 
to blight, sweeten soil with air-slaked lime some 
weeks before planting, and use tobacco dust near 
roots. 

Pink * Balsam, Lady Slipper : Impatiens balsamina. Aug.-Sept. 
Yellow Tender annual. Rich soil and sun and moisture. 
If started under glass, set out plants 1 foot apart. 
It may also be sown in garden after danger of frost 
is over to bloom two months later. Sometimes con- 
venient to start it late in flats, and have it ready 
to replace Canterbury Bells, or other annuals that 
die about July 1. Transplanting twice dwarfs plants 

[74] 



ANNUALS 

COLOB , ^ ^ HEIGHT 

into better shape, and pinching out weaker branches 
produces finer plants, if specimen plants are desired. 
Pink Begonia semperflorens, var. gracilis: Elephant's- ^"^ 
Ear, fibrous-rooted. Tender annual. Light rose 
variety. Propagate by seed, or cuttings, the latter 
method preferable. Grows in rich light soil. Should 
not be allowed to get too dry. Very effective grouped 
inside of broad band of Sweet Alyssum. Blooms in 
sun or partial shade. 
Various *Begonia, var. tuberous-rooted. Grows best in semi- 1 ft. 
shade. Lift it just before frost and dry tubers. Winter 
this variety in sand in moderate temperature, cellar 
or elsewhere. 

Bellis perennis. See Daisy, English. 

Bluets. See Centaurea cyanus. 

Blue *Bbacbycome iberidifolia: Swan River Daisy. Half June-Aug. 
hardy. Set these little plants 6 inches apart in a line ^' 
directly behind Sweet Alyssum, when blue is required. 
It sends out drooping sprays of flowers which mix 
attractively with Alyssum. Sow in frame April 1 or 
outdoors. Pinch back once or twice to keep compact. 

Yellow Calendula q^cinaZ^'s : Pot Marigold. Hardy annual. June-Oct. 
Q [j Avoid the orange shade, unless it is to be used in a ^^ "*• 
yellow bed. Varieties sulphur yellow and the white 
Pluvilis are favorites. Grow quickly from seed in 
any light soil and sun, and are continuous bloomers. 
Set plants 6 inches apart. SeK-sow freely. ; 

[ 75 ] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA __ 

MONTH 
COLOR . , HEIGHT 

Yellow Calliopsis, Coreopsis: Tickseed, var. Crown of June-Oct. 
Gold. Flower resembles the perennial Coreopsis. ^ *^- 
Also variety Drummondii, or Golden Wave, which is 
quite similar to the foregoing but has a small brown 
centre. Newer than the old taller yellow and garnet 
varieties and have a longer bloom, if fading flowers 
are cut off. Sow a close double row to make a bril- 
liant edging, or else use it just behind Sweet Alyssum. 
It is hardy and will bloom till frost if flowers are not 
allowed to seed. Sow where they are to grow, and 
thin out, but when very young they are transplantable. 

White Candytuft: Iberis umbellata. Hardy annual. If June 
a long bloom is desired, make successive sowings; the ^ 
first, soon after April 1, to bloom June 1; sow again 
May 1 to bloom July 1 for three weeks. Two rows of 
successive sowings may thus grow behind some later 
and long-blooming annual that edges a bed; for in- 
stance, behind Nasturtium. By the time the Candy- 
tuft bloom has passed the Nasturtium will begin to 
flower. The massive pyramid or spiral Candytuft 
has a longer bloom than the others. 

Blue Canterbury Bell: Campanula medium; also C. June 
^^^^ calycanthema, biennials. The latter is the cup-and- 
saucer kind. They thrive best in rich soil and moisture. 
Staking is necessary when weighted with bloom. Cut 
off faded flowers and another lesser bloom will follow. 
Discard plants as soon as bloom is over. Sow seeds in 

[76] 



i 



ANNUALS „^_ 

MONTH 
COLOB 1 • T • 1 • HEIGHT 

May, transplant m June to 6 inches apart in nursery. 
In September place 10 inches apart in cold-frame, if the 
climate demands the glass or slat covering in winter. 
Give air to glass frame in warm winter days. Place 
plants in the garden in early spring. In a mild climate 
transplant to the garden in September or October 
and cover lightly. They die under heavy cover. 
Celosia. See Cockscomb. 

Blue Centaurea cyanus: Bluet, Corn Flower, Ragged May-June 
,^^ Sailor, Kaiser Blumen. Hardy annual. Use the tall ^^ ^^' 
varieties. Bloom for two months if not allowed to 
seed. A mass of these plants close-set makes an effec- 
tive group, especially when surrounded with two close 
lines of Silene armeria. It is best to sow them in 
August or early September for May and June bloom, 
so that later their space may be filled with some spring- 
sown plants like tall Cockscomb. Sun and almost any 
soil suit them. Watering and cutting prolong bloom. 

Rose * Centaurea moschata, var. imperialis : Sweet Sul- June 

Lilac j-g^jj ^ large thistle-like, sweet-scented flower. Thrives ^^ "^' 
Wrnte . 

Buff best in cool, moist climate. Not so hardy as Corn 

Flower. 

^yijitg * Chrysanthemum, vars. coronarium and Burrid- July-Oct. 
Colored gianum : Painted Daisy. Tricolored. Tender annual. ^^ ^** 
Best to sow where it is to grow and thin out. When 
6 inches high pinch back to make bushy. Frequent 
cutting prolongs bloom. 

[77] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^ 

COLOR „ ^-. • -r» • HEIGHT 

White *CHRYSANTHEMTlM/rwie5cen5,var. Marguerite: raris June-July 
Daisy. Tender annual. Generally grown from cut- ^^ ^*' 
tings. Buy the young plants in May so that the 
best bloom will come the last of June. Plant out 
May 15. 

Pink *Clarkia elegans. Half hardy. Double. Sun or July 
semi-shade. Use in a large garden when great variety ^ "* 
is required. Set plants 5 inches apart. 

White Cleome pungens : Giant Spider Flower. Tender July 
■^"^ annual. The white variety is especially effective. 
A tall, slim plant with large head, occupying as a single 
plant but little room. 

Crimson CocKSCOMB, FEATHERED : Celosia 'plumosa. Vars. Aug.-Oct 
Yellow Thompson, magnifica, and Superb, are taller than "* 
the Castle Gould variety. Tender annual. Use the 
latter near front of bed. Cockscombs grow in any 
good soil, not too heavy, sun or partial shade. Sown 
in open ground, seeds do not germinate until about 
June 1. Better to start Cockscomb under glass April 
1. When sown in the cold-frame, if it does not ap- 
pear as early as other seedlings, don't give it up, 
but await warmer days. The feathered variety is 
almost the height of tall Zinnia. 

Pink Cockscomb: Celosia smcata. A tender annual. Aug.-Oct. 
This newer variety, while not as rich in coloring and 
form, is yet quite effective in groups of three or four 

[78] 



ANNUALS 

COLOB ... . • 1 i HEIGHT 

plants, rising in slender spikes above Vmcas, dwarf 
Zinnias, etc. Late in the season the pink turns to 
white. 

Coreopsis. See Calliopsls. 

Corn Flower. See Centaurea cyanus. 

Pink Cosmos, early var. In rich soil and sun, and with July-Oct. 
^^^*^ fading blossoms removed, the early kind is a long and ^"^ 
free bloomer. Sow under glass by April 1. The crim- 
son shade approaches so near to the magenta, an un- 
popular color with many, that it may be best to use 
only the pink and white colors. 

Yf\a\je Daisy, English: Bellis perennis. Hardy annual. May 

P"^ Sow seed in August for spring bloom. Give winter ° ^' 

protection in cold-frame, except in mild climate. Needs 

moisture to keep it blooming well for five or six weeks. 

Discard plants after first bloom. 

Daisy Painted. See Chrysanthemum Burridg. 

Rose DiANTHUS CMnensis : Pinks. Hardy annual, double June-Oct. 
'^^m^^ and single. Many prefer the single variety, of which ^ ^*- 
Salmon Queen and Eastern Queen are fine specimens, 
particularly effective behind Sweet Alyssum. When 
using a red variety, plant the double white "Snow- 
ball" with it, for better effect. Sow Portulaca of 
same color, sometimes sparingly, around a group of 
Dianthus. It does best in rich, light soil and sun, with 
some watering in dry times. Sow in open nursery in 

[79] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

MONTH 
COIiOK ^ HEIGHT 

spring, for bloom three montlis later, or else under 
glass in February or March for bloom in late June. 
Under favorable conditions it will survive the winter 
in the open. 

Yellow EscHscHOLTZiA : California Poppy. Hardy annual. July-Oct. 
This pretty border flower requires light soil and sun 
and is at its best in a sea climate. It is essentially a 
sun plant. While it thrives near the sea, it sometimes 
"damps off" in long continued rains, even inland. 



* Euphorbia. See Snow-on-the-Mountain. 

Yf\^te Feverfew, Mayweed: Matricaria capensis, alba, ^une-bept. 
plena. Hardy perennial, but treat as hardy annual. 
Use double white variety only. Sow in August and 
September, for June bloom. Again in May for Aug- 
ust flowering. May also be propagated by cuttings 
and division. See same in perennial list. 

Blue * Forget-me-not : Myosotis alpestris. Var. Vic- May-June 
toria, one of the best of these biennials, will survive ^ ^' 
cold winter with sufficient protection. Sow in August 
in frame. 

•^Yliite * Fuchsia: Lady's-Eardrop. Tender annual. In a June-Oct. 

and pink Jry^ hot climate this plant succeeds only in partial ^"^ 
com- 
bined shade, with ample watering and light, rich soil. When- 
ever possible, use standard Fuchsia as a background 
to the lower ones. Choose the pink-and-white com- 
binations. Buds may be picked off at certain times 

[80] 



I 



ANNUALS „„^_ 

MONTH 
COLOR ^ ^ HEIGHT 

in order to induce a more profuse bloom when most 
needed. Buy plants. 

Gold and Gaillardia, vars. picta and amhlyodon : Blanket- jg L. 
Red Flower. Hardy annual. Profuse and continuous 
bloomer. Set 5 inches apart and plant in groups. Any 
good soil and sun. 

Garnet * Globe Amaranth; Gomphrena. Hardy annual. July-Oct. 
Pink Plant a patch 3 by 2 feet of the garnet-red nana com- ^^ ^' 
pacta, 8 inches apart, margined with a band of the 
pink variety. Grow in sun and any good soil. 

Shell- *Godetia. a delicate, beautiful flower. Half July 
pink hardy. Does best in rather poor soil. It is not a long 
bloomer; if alternated with China Aster will finish 
blooming before the Asters begin. Use only in large 
garden where great variety is required. 

Gomphrena. See Globe Amaranth. 

Helianthus. See Sunflower. 

Blue Hejaotb.oi'Ii: Heliotropium. Tender annual. Grown June-Oct. 
in standard form to the height of 3 feet or more, ^ ft. and 1 ft. 
it is a most effective plant, especially when used with 
low-growing Heliotrope or Ageratum at its base. A 
mass of low-growing Heliotrope with a border of 
Sweet Alyssum or white Petunia is also desirable. The 
common lilac shade is the more sweet-scented. Variety 
centifleur is more popular with its rich tone of deep 
blue. Generally propagated by cuttings in green- 

[81] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

MONTH 
COLOR HEIGHT 

house. Cut off fading flowers to prevent a rusty look 
and to encourage bloom until frost. 

Iberis. See Candytuft. 

Light * Impatiens sultani: Zanzibar Balsam. Tender an- July-Oct. 
pink jjual. Grouped behind Sweet Alyssum in a pink bed, ^^ ^' 
it is most desirable. Pinch back to induce branching. 
Once started, it is easier thereafter to propagate it from 
cuttings. The light-pink variety only is advised; is 
more often seen in England than in this country. 

White *Lantana, var. alba perfeda. Half-hardy annual. June-Oct. 
A mass of this white plant is often useful. Set plants ™' 
7 or 8 inches apart, pinch back centre stem consider- 
ably to produce bushy plant. Keep plant trimmed to 
12 to 15 inches in height. 

Blue Larkspur: Delphinium. Hardy annual. One of JuIy20-O 
■^^^ the most valuable of the annuals because of its tall g^^^^^ 
Crimson spikes and fine colors. When fall-sown it blooms at a 
^ period (July 1) when the mass of showiest hardy peren- 
nials are not in flower (near New York) and the other 
annuals are only just beginning to bloom. It may be 
sown also in spring, producing flowers three months 
later, and thus two sowings provide Larkspur for a 
long season. Give the fall-sown plants a light, loose 
winter covering. In early spring transplant to the 
garden. Sow the spring-sown ones in the open nurs- 
ery or frame, and move to the garden with roots 

[82] 



ANNUALS ^^^ 

COLOR HEIGHT 

balled, when 2 or 3 inches high. Set them near the 
elder ones if needed there, or sow in garden. 

Pink *Lavatera trimestris grandifiora rosea: Mallow, July-Aug. 
Hardy annual. Generally sown May where it is to ^ ^** 
bloom, and thinned out to 10 inches apart. Grows 
best in sun and rich soil and needs plenty of water. 
Thrives near the sea. Rather a bushy plant. Use 
only in large garden where more variety is desired. 
In flower about a month. 

Blue * Lobelia, var. Crystal Palace compada. Tender June-Oct. 
annual. Very effective growing with low Sweet Alys- "^' 
sum. Set Lobelias 5 inches apart in any light, rich 
soil, sun or semi-shade. Propagate by seed or cutting. 
Only frequent watering will give prolonged bloom. 
Does best in cool climate or else semi-shade. 

Dark * Lobelia, var. Tenuior. Tender annual. A taller June-Sept. 

blue variety. Use only when sufficient moisture can be 
Yvnite 
eye supplied, if long bloom is required. In a dry climate 

it is not long-lived. 

White * Lupin: Lwpinus. Hardy annual. Grows easily May-June 
p!"f and quickly in congenial surroundings; rather difficult 
to transplant. Needs plenty of water in dry climate, 
and a good soil that is not too light. Prefers semi- 
shade. Sow seeds 5 inches apart April 1 for bloom 
six weeks later. Once established in a place like a 
wild garden, it will often perpetuate itself indefinitely. 

[83] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^ 

COLOR HEIGHT 

Pale Marigold: Tagetes erecta. Hardy annual. Use Jime-Oct. 
Yellow ^pi^jajj variety. Lemon Queen. Not as dainty as most 
of its neighbors in the garden, but gives so freely to 
the garden decoration that it should not be despised. 
Marigold, Pot. See Calendula. 
Matricaria. See Feverfew. 
Myosotis. See Forget-me-not. 
Pink * Nasturtium: Tropceolum. Dwarf variety. Hardy June-Oct 
^'^^^ annual. The red colors are apt to conflict with other 
shades, so choose only the pink and white shades. 
Seeds sown May 1 behind Pansies near the border of 
a bed come up nicely to succeed the latter. 

\Viiite NicoTiANA affinis: Tobacco Plant. Hardy annual. July-Oct. 
Sweet-scented, excellent for shady position, as well as ^~* ^*- 
sun. Closes its petals in bright sun. Set plants 1 foot 
apart, and pick off the broad lower leaves to prevent 
crowding when plant has grown. It self -sows so freely 
that it is unnecessary to buy seeds the second year if 
you are familiar enough with the young plants to 
preserve the seedlings when they appear — about June 
1. Transplants easily. 

Blue Pansy: Heartsease. Hardy annual. Most gar- April-Oct. 
Yellow deners sow the Pansy in late August, to bloom the ^ ^' 
Red following spring, and winter it in a cold-frame, from 
Lilac ^Q^ij- York City northward. Farther south they are 
usually wintered in the open ground under a cov- 
ering of leaves or hay. To do well, the Pansy should 

[84] 



ANNUALS „,_ 

COLOR .... . HBIGHI 

have rich, fine soil and moisture. It is also sown in 
spring to bloom in late summer. It is more satisfac- 
tory to choose your own seeds, letting the lighter 
shades predominate, as they are more effective in the 
garden. Plant in patches of solid colors, or in alter- 
nating colors that blend well. Pansy bloom can be 
had continuously from May to October by having two 
sets of plants, fall-sown and spring-sown. In the 
shorter, cooler seasons of the North, Pansies need 
not be replaced. 

Piak Petunia. The single-bedding Petunia seems to be June-Oct. 
White longer-lived by a few weeks than the larger and double ^ ^' 
or the fringed varieties. Use the single and compact 
Petunia, as it makes a neater and more even growth. 
Have white Snowball. Rosy Morn, Pink Beauty, 
and Brilliant are best in pink. If particular about 
colors, do not depend upon self-sown seeds, as they 
are apt to revert to original color. Remove fading 
flowers. Sow April 1 under glass, if bloom is to 
begin June 25. 

White * Phlox Drummondii. Use this charming plant July, late 
_rmk ^ijgjj ^Q gardener has time to replace it with some- 
thing else after its comparatively short bloom. It 
generally blooms about six weeks. Plant 10 inches 
apart. Pinch out main shoot to induce bushy growth 
and to prolong flowering season. Keep from going 
to seed. Sun, good soil, and watering necessary. 

[85] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

MONTH 
COLOB , , , HEIGHT 

Poppy, California. See Eschscholtzia. 

Pinks * Poppy, Shirley, Corn Poppy: Papaver Rhces. May, late, or 
^^eds Hardy annual. Poppies sown about August 20 will J"ne,late 
bloom late May. Sown April 1, will bloom late June. 
When they come up very crowded, thin them out. 
Those who would use Shirley Poppies in masses in a 
garden of continuous bloom must be confronted with 
a serious question: What to do with the space they 
cover after the bloom of three or four weeks? When 
sown the previous August to bloom in late May, they 
will be ready for removal by mid-June, and are easily 
replaced by long-blooming annuals like Celosia or 
Zinnias, which are not so difficult to move at this time. 
If, however, they are sown in spring, the space will 
be flowerless for the ten or eleven weeks of their grow- 
ing period till they bloom in late June. When they 
depart in mid-July, it is not as simple a matter to re- 
place them. Possibly the best advice, especially when 
spring-sown, is to sow them in a thin line or in small 
clumps, near plants that will later spread over their 
spaces. Prefer cool or moist climate. 

Pink * PoRTULACA : Sun-plant. Hardy annual. Fewpeo- July-Oct. 

Buff P^® ^^^^ ^^^ *^^ ordinary mixed colors of this plant; ^ "^• 
but used under separate colors, possibly rose and white, 
it makes an attractive edging. In the shade and at 
sundown, this flower closes up, detracting from its 
beauty. Does not germinate until about June 1, and 
then develops very quickly. If particular about colors, 

[ 86 ] 



ANNUALS „oNTH 

COLOR HEIGHT 

do not depend next year upon self-sown seeds, as 
they are apt to revert to original color. Seems to do 
as well in poor as in rich soil. 

Various Salpiglossis grandifiora: Painted Tongue. Ten- July-Sept, 
der annual. Lovely shades marked with colored veins. 
Blooms for two months under congenial conditions. 
Plants are slim and can be placed 5 inches apart. 
Prefers rich, light soil. Sometimes difficult to start, 
and more often satisfactory started in the greenhouse. 
In some places where it does as well when sown in 
the open, a second sowing can be made in garden for 
late bloom. To make them effective in the garden, 
plant at least eight in a group. 

Blue * Salvia farinacea : Sage. Treat as hardy annual, July-Oct. 
blue. Bushy plant, flowers in long spikes. Use only 
in large bed, as one plant occupies considerable space, 
possibly 2 feet square. 

Yellow *Sanvitalia procumbens, fl. pi. Creeping plant. June-Sept. 
Tender annual. Small double flowers. Set plants ^ ^' 
6 to 8 inches apart. Mixes well with Sweet Alyssum. 
Can be kept compact by pinching back, or else let it 
creep out in slender sprays over a broad patch of 
Sweet Alyssum. Better sow under glass. 

White ScABiosA : Sweet Scabious, Mourning Bride. Hardy July-Oct. 
^^ annual. Use tall variety. Flowers grow on long stems, ^"^ ^*^- 

reds with but little foliage, so plants may be set 6 inches 
Violets apar^ {j^ groups. Has a long, continuous bloom. 

[87 1 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 



MONTH 
HEIGHT 



Prefers rich soil, not very heavy, may be started 
luider glass, but grows quickly from seed sown in 
the garden after frost time. 

White *ScHiZANTHUs: Butterfly-Flower. A tender green- June, July 
house luxury, covered with blossoms for a month. "^' 
A few may be used in a large garden if they can be 
later replaced by a long and late bloomer. Use light 
pink preferably. 

Pinks * SiLENE armeria : Catchfly. Hardy annual. Used May, late 
White -j^ masses, or as a band (in two rows) around a mass 
of Bluets, this plant is a valuable addition to the 
garden when German Iris is in bloom, and later. It 
is especially attractive when white and the paler of 
the two pinks predominate. Sow in August in open 
nursery or cold-frame. In cold climate needs a little 
more winter protection than do Bluets, but will die 
under heavy covering of manure. Use salt-hay or 
straw moderately or slat-frame. Plants may be set 
4 inches apart. Moisture prolongs bloom. 

White Snapdragon: Antirrhinum. Tall variety. Hardy June-Oet. 
^^^ annual. Possibly the choicest of all the garden plants. 

Yellow May be had in full bloom through the longest season 
if sown in hotbed or greenhouse by March 1, and 
again, in the open by May 1. When June bloom is 
desired and if it cannot be started in spring in heat 
nor purchased in plants, then sow in August, and 

* American catalogues. 

[ 88 ] 



ANNUALS 



MONTH 
HEIGHT 



winter it in cold-frame. Needs sun and moderately 
rich soil that is not too heavy. Remove fading flow- 
ers to prolong bloom. In Maine, with its shorter 
season and cooler, moister climatev the early spring 
sowing is sufficient. 

Whitish *Snow-on-the-Mountain: Euphorbia variegata. July-Oct. 
foliage Tender annual. Foliage plant, green and white. Six 
plants grouped 10 inches apart makes an effective 
mass in a large bed. Plants are strong and bushy. 

Yellow Sunflower, Miniature, Single: Helianthus cucu- July-Oct. 
to Cream merifolius. Hardy annual. Indispensable in the plan 
for a long bloom, easily raised, and a continuous 
bloomer. While young keep it from being crowded. 
One plant to a space. 

Yellow * Tagetes signata pumila. Hardy annual, a dwarf June-Oct. 
form of Marigold, with a more attractive fragrance ^' 
and a finer, more fern-like foliage than any of the 
others. Compact growth and with small flowers. A 
row of these plants 10 inches apart near the front of 
a yellow bed adds sunshine to the garden for those 
who care for yellow. Pinch back once or twice. 

Tobacco Plant. See Nicotiana. 

Blue * ToRENiA Fournieri. Tender annual. Beautiful July-Oet. 
little flowers on a bushy plant. Thrives in semi-shade 
and rich, light soil. Better to start it in greenhouse or 
hotbed. Set plants 6 inches apart in line or groups. 

[89] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

MONTH 
COIiOB , , HEIGHT 

Touch-Me-Not. See Impatiens Sultani. 

Pink Verbena, Mammoth. Tender annual. Use deep- June-Oct. 

■^ J^ blue Verbena venosa, and the darker-red variety and, 
red if possible, secure the pink, Verbena, var. Francis. 
^ ^ Set plants about 10 inches apart. When branches 
grow long peg them down to the earth to take root at 
these points. Remove all fading flowers and the bloom 
will continue till frost. To make sure of germination, 
soak seeds in tepid water for two hours; sow in rich 
light soil in March (for June bloom) in house or hot- 
bed or greenhouse and transplant to flats. Plant out 
after frost time. Verbena dislikes heavy soil. 

White Vinca: Madagascar Periwinkle. Tender annual. July-Oct. 
Rose Ugg jjiore white, and white with pinli eye than plain ^' 
deep pink. Sow in hotbed or cold-frame. Set plants 
6 inches apart in lines or groups. When planting a line 
make it a double or triple line for better effect. Its 
position should be not far from the front edge of the 
bed. 

•p\n]c Zinnia: Youth-and-Old-Age. Hardy annual. Care- June-Oct. 
Buff fully avoid the deep yellow, also scarlet. One of the 
White most useful of all the annuals. In some beds the 
taller variety is desirable, and again the dwarf kind 
is preferable. Sometimes the taller may be used 
in a line behind a line of the dwarf variety. For 
June bloom it must be started under glass by April 1. 
It transplants easily in any size. With constant cut- 

[90] 



i 



ANNUALS 

ting off of the fading bloom, it continues to look fresh 
and vigorous until frost. Sown in a sheltered sunny 
corner of the open nursery. Zinnias will begin to show 
their color just before July 1, a little later than those 
sown in the cold-frame April 1. Unfortunately few 
open nurseries have warm corners. As the seeds un- 
der separate colors may not all come true, sow also a 
packet of mixed Zinnias from which to take the favorite 
shades in case there are bad tones among the plants of 
separate colors. 

BULBS 

Canna use Pink, White only. 

* Dahlia, Cactus, single, etc. Allow one or two 
tubers to a plant, make a slight hollow in surface of 
soil above roots, and apply water freely when the 
bloom is unsatisfactory. Store tubers in winter in 
moderate temperature. Plant in May or June. 

Gladioli. Plant 3 inches deep. They bloom two 
months after planting. Give house protection in 
winter. 

Tulip, Early Variety, dwarfer. 

Tulip, Late: Darwin, Cottage, May-flowering. 
When flowers fade, remove them, but let the foliage re- 
main until dry. If they must be lifted to make room 
for other things plant them in good soil outside the 
garden and place them in beds again after frost has 
destroyed the garden. They are better left undisturbed. 

[91] 



MONTH 
HEIGHT 



Chapter IX 
MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 

A CITY YARD 

The following brief plan might be adapted to suit 
the small area of a city yard, and the photograph op- 
posite this page, of a pergola for the rear of such a 
3^ard is a delightful suggestion for the town garden. 
Covered with Wistaria bloom in May, and climbing 
Nasturtium in September, how cool and green within 
and how bright and cheerful this patch of country 
color brought into the city's barrenness ! When the 
laundry can be elsewhere provided for, the grass plot 
may be filled with Daffodils and the two periods of 
Tulips, covering a season of six weeks. Later the 
green sod gives no sign of the hidden bulbs. The 
small beds at the four corners overflow with annuals 
early and late. The most suitable of these for a semi- 
shady yard in spring and September are Pansies fall- 
sown and spring-sown, or else fall-sown Pansies fol- 
lowed by white and blue Ageratum, compact Petunias 
or Torenia, or else the Tulips mixed in with Viola 
cornuta, h. p. The latter plant in partial shade with 

[92] 



MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 

ample watering is supposed with care to bloom on 
from mid-May till October 1. 

The two long bordering beds, if possible not less 
than 3^ feet deep, can contain the same combination 







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Z>c- 












3 


^ 












>io 


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■V 






Grass. 






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of plants as those advised for the long beds in the 
discussion of the "Spring and Fall Garden." 

The walls may be covered with Akebia qumtata 
with its dainty leaf and purplish spring berry, and 
with Vitis, heterophylla var., whose iridescent blue 

[93] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

berry and delicate foliage are an exceptionally artistic 
adornment for the indoor flower-bowl in September. 

MY GARDEN 

Less than two acres on a hillside. Two terraces, 
making two flights of steps between the house and 
lower garden. In laying out this small place, a rather 
informal planting seemed desirable in order that the re- 
stricted space and boundary-lines could be treated in a 
manner that might cause them to be unnoticed, more 
or less. For this purpose a part of the main path was 
laid out in irregular lines with just enough shrubbery on 
either side to conceal the curves. This scheme leaves 
something to the imagination, which interesting sense is 
sure to exaggerate and to enlarge while the path keeps 
turning. 

In the upper garden, as shown in the wide view, 
notice that the planting is made rather diflScult by 
the shade of the Apple-trees, although at the risk of 
the flowers, the gardener has never dreamed of dis- 
pensing with anything as cherished as these graceful 
old trees. On the right, where the shadows are denser, 
early wild flowers and Narcissi grow, and Forget-me- 
nots appear with the Apple bloom, followed later by 
the cheerful Nicotiana affinis and Salvia to enliven the 
shadows. The little formal planting on the left has 
the sun after ten in the morning and many of the 
perennials and annuals thrive here. 

[ 94 ] 



MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 

In the lower garden, where there is more sun, there 
are beds of bloom and groups of tall shrubs. A small, 
curved path between two Rose beds leaves the main 
walk to end in a grape arbor, through which a grass 
path leads to the gardener's bower enclosed by shrubs 
and "skylighted." This circular green-room contains 
a curved white seat and table, and is a peaceful re- 
treat, inviting book and pen, or other quiet pastime. 
Elsewhere there are nooks for Lilies-of-the- Valley, 
bulbs in the grass, and a bird bath, while the eight- 
room purple martin house stands like a lodge near the 
gate leading into a lane. Absolute simplicity, cosiness, 
and privacy prevail, all made possible by a few shrubs, 
trees, and flowers, and some imagination. Contrasting 
it now with its original state as a grassy slope bounded 
with fences, one might say — quoting Mr. Lowell: 

"Till now one dreamed not what could be done 
V^ith a bit of earth and a ray of sun." 

THE SEPARATE SPRING GARDEN 

Under the title of this book it may at first seem 
inappropriate that any section of it should be given 
to a garden of but one period of bloom. The unresisted 
temptation to dwell on the possibilities of spring alone, 
will find its excuse in the fact that for lack of space 
long continuous bloom must usually exclude an early 

[95] . 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

spring planting in the main garden, for which there- 
fore provision must elsewhere be made. Then in- 
cidentally, to those not at home to enjoy the summer 
flowers, the separate spring garden will suggest the 
opportunity for including fall bloom, and here again 
we have the original scheme of continuous bloom de- 
lightfully ignored. Such inconsistency will be pardoned 
at least by him whom it benefits. 

In some favored places spring can lead us to a 
veritable fairy-land of blossoms in a cosey nook of her 
own. Perhaps it lies within an outer court of the main 
garden, or sometimes away in a partly shaded corner 
of the place, preferably just below a sloping bank upon 
which is given special opportunity for the fuller dis- 
play of the lower plants. Within this enclosure late 
April is represented by clumps of Daffodils springing 
from the borders of the grassy walks at intervals of 
3 feet. Pansies and English Daisies are opening in 
the small beds. While the rising slope at one end of 
this garden is covered with Phlox subulata, blue Peri- 
winkles, Primroses, and Daffodils. Later wUd Lupins 
adorn the bank. On the other three sides, just be- 
yond the boundary-lines, the Forsythias are flowering, 
followed by Magnolia and Cherry bloom. 

Again, there is nothing fairer than that which May 
has to offer. A wall of blossoms is possible on shrub 
and trees just over the line. The bank is blue with 
Lupin, and the small open beds (if there are any), 

[ 96 ] 



MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 

are now carpeted in all the dazzling hues of Pansies, 
English Daisies, Viola comuta. Forget-me-not (alpes- 
tris), etc. Two periods of glowing Tulips may rise 
in turn from the middle of the open beds. A centre 
group of Cottage Tulips margined with two closely 
set lines of early Tulips. The plants in these small 
beds (Tulips excepted, of course) can be set out in 
April if the climate does not permit of their wintering 
in the open. 

The wall beds, those against a background, what- 
ever it may be, would contain mainly the taller hardy 
perennials of April and May, placed alternately the 
length of the centre line. First, blooming, sky-blue 
Mertensia Virginica, and Phlox divaricata, the Golden 
Doronicums, and early and late Tulips. The lower 
plants growing at the edge are Arabis and Candytuft, 
alternating with some Pansies. The Tulips, of course, 
take an important part, and the colors of the different 
groups should be a matter of careful study. 

The second period of May offers quite a choice of 
plants, but for a small garden this selection is advised. 
Bleeding-Heart, in front of Valerian at the four cor- 
ners (if the garden is square) Lupin poly., Pyrethrum, 
hybrid. Columbine, Oriental Poppy, German Iris, and 
fall-sown Silene and Bluets. Beyond the walls in early 
May, the Apple-trees are in blossom, then the Lilacs 
come, preceding Mock-Orange shrubs and perfuming 
the air for many rods away. 

[07] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

THE SPRING AND FALL GARDEN 

When the owner of a separate spring garden in the 
country would also have a September-flowering plot 
awaiting him after his summer sojourn afar, it is quite 
simple to use his May garden for this purpose. 

In June when the annual English Daisies, Pansies, 
and Forget-me-nots have ceased to do their best in 
the centre beds, they can be replaced by some long- 
lived, low-growing annuals, such as Petunia, Verbena, 
Calliopsis, var. Golden Wave, or pink fibrous Begonias 
surrounded by Sweet Alyssum. Any of these plants 
may also replace the Pansies in the front line of the 
wall beds. 

In the rear line of the wall beds where the May 
perennials grow, Monkshood Wilsoni should have its 
permanent place for September bloom, and Septem- 
ber-flowering Chrysanthemums, Snapdragon, Gladioli, 
and Larkspur may replace the vanished Mertensia, 
Oriental Poppy, Silene, Bluets, and Tulips. 

THE OUTER COURT 

An outer court to the garden proper is an added 
delight when space will allow sufficient breadth to 
prevent a cramped feeling within its walls. The court 
itself can be treated in various ways and at the same 
time it gives a sense of special privacy to the garden en- 
closure. It is an ideal place for an early spring garden. 

[98] 



MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 
COLOR 

COLOR IN MASS 

In a garden where bloom is required only for two 
or three periods, for instance during July and August 
into September, it is a simple matter to produce the 
color effect in masses. For a longer space of time it 
is impossible to give all the periods an equal repre- 
sentation over each bed, except in small groups of 
color, or single plants depending on size of bed. 

COLOR IN GARDEN 

To preserve harmony in the coloring of the garden, 
orange and light red should be very sparingly used. 
In fact, it is best to bar out any but dark reds. Un- 
less one is truly an artist a safe rule for the use of orange 
is to keep it close to pale yellow and white. 

In gardens where some beds may be viewed from 
more than one point, study the effect of color com- 
bination from all sides. From one position all may 
blend well, from another point the eye may connect 
discordant tones in two adjoining beds that were not 
visible before. What more painful than a meeting of 
orange and pink.'^ Or of pink and red Salvia .^^ How 
welcome the warm touch of dark red or maroon as 
found in some Hollyhocks, Snapdragon, Verbena, 
Dianthus, and an occasional Zinnia, feathered Celosia, 

[99] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

rare, deep-red Oriental Poppy, Pyrethrum, hybrid, and 
some Phlox Drummondii. Another desirable red is 
the garnet Globe Amaranth and Agrostemma coronaria. 
The darker reds will harmonize with everything. 
Many hired gardeners need to have this subject of 
reds and yellows brought forcibly to their attention, 
especially when they must order the seeds and group 
the plants. 

Rarely do our gardens contain sufficient white. 
Use white freely; it seems to bring out all the other 
colors with it. 

Where all colors are admitted, use also pink and 
blue plentifully: dark red and yellow more sparingly, 
except in beds of yellow or red. Let the red bed be 
relieved with sufficient white and a little blue. In the 
yellow bed have also some blue and lavender. To the 
blue bed give some light yellow and white. 

In the pink bed, use white, some lilac tones, and a 
touch of garnet. 

COLOR STANDARD 

There is a great demand among gardeners for a 
color chart to guide us in our description of flowers. 
The need is for the revision of existing names indi- 
cating the various tones of color according to a recog- 
nized standard. The question is whether the various 
horticultural societies and the trade as a whole will 
consent to recognize such a classification. A chart of 
"Color Standards" has been recently made, and it 

[ 100 ] 



Plate XIII 




From a pholograph by J. H. MacFarland Co. 

A separate spring garden 
Hartford, Conn., Mrs. J. J. Goodwin 




The outer court — "Green Court" 
Augusta, Ga., Mrs. H. P. Crowell 



MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 

remains to be seen whether the gardening pubHc will 
adopt it. Mrs. Francis King, who has gone so deeply 
into the color question, as shown in her delightful 
book, "A Well-Considered Garden," writes as follows: 
"If such a color standard could be adopted gener- 
ally, there would soon dawn a new era in the ques- 
tion of correct color naming in this country." At 
present our color descriptions are sadly misleading. 

PEONIES IN MASS 

In the charmingly planned garden, shown in the 
upper illustration Plate XVI, suppose the four large 
beds bordering the central paths were filled with Pe- 
onies. It is a great temptation to have a mass of 
this bloom for the beautiful effect in early June: but 
let us remember that afterward only the edges of 
such a bed can be counted on to provide blossoms 
for the remainder of the season. This plan is there- 
fore not feasible for a garden of continuous bloom, 
wherein even the largest beds (20 square feet or more) 
should not contain over four or five of these bushy 
plants. It is necessary that the remaining space in 
the bed be given to the other flowering periods, the 
plants of which are almost as effective and occupy 
less room. 

POPPIES IN MASS 

Every one wants Shirley Poppies, and the Bar Harbor 
picture in Plate XVI is an argument in their behalf, 

[ 101 ] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

but it is often a diflBcult problem to handle them satis- 
factorily in a garden of continuous bloom. In the 
North, where the summer is shorter and the climate 
cool and moist especially near the sea, masses of Shirley 
Poppies can be used to much better advantage than 
farther south where there are a greater number of 
periods of bloom for which to provide, and where the 
climate is warm and dry (except near the shore), 
which shortens their blossoming season. In Maine, 
these Poppies, sown in mid-April and again in mid- 
May, will flower from July 1 till frost, if not allowed 
to overcrowd one another. The first set must not 
choke out the second. For further information re- 
garding this flower, read of its habits in Chapter VIII. 

TREES AND GARDENS 

When questioned as to whether it is advisable to 
have trees in a garden, the inclination is strong to 
advocate their use in a large garden which may also 
have its share of plentiful sunshine. It might be pos- 
sible to have too much of sunshine ceaselessly for 
weeks and months,' as in some sections of the coun- 
try, and trees mean varying shadows, and deep re- 
flections in the pool, a cool retreat from the glare and 
heat of a summer day; trees bring birds, and sounds 
called music, to ears attuned, and always there is 
variety, mystic atmosphere permeating the tree, 
soul-satisfying to many humans. But not so to cer- 

[ 102 ] 




■> sc 






'M'M 



ri:*- 



MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 

tain flowers which are our best garden blossoms. They 
mostly long for the smi, from its rising to its setting, 
providing they have sufficient water. They show their 
disapproval too of the wandering tree roots that find 
their way to the rich soil of garden-beds. Undoubtedly 
the garden that is treeless will produce the finest 
plants in the greatest number, but there are gardeners 
who prefer fewer flowers and more green foliage and 
more shadows. 

Beneath the high-arched trees, the few shade- 
loving plants can be used, but these are not often of 
the class which give much color effect. In such a 
garden growths of evergreen shrubs are especially wel- 
come, while in every open space, where the sun will 
always find them, should be grouped the flowers that 
give the beloved color. The gardens shown opposite 
pages 102 and 104 are beautiful examples. 

When trees are not desired within the garden, at 
least they should have their place in the background 
as a setting to the garden, when there is room enough 
for them on the property. They should be considered, 
with the wall or hedge, as part of the boundary plan. 

The trees in the background of the attractive but 
simple garden in Plate XV might almost be called its 
chief feature, thereby illustrating the argument in 
favor of a setting of trees in which to frame the garden. 

When starting a new place or garden, do not cut 
down a single tree until you are positive it will never 

[103] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

be needed. An established tree, especially one grace- 
fully shaped, may sometimes be found to be invalu- 
able, literally worth its weight in gold, as an orna- 
ment within or outside the garden. No new tree could 
replace it in this or the next generation. If trees are 
to be planted as a background to the garden, the 
Weeping Willow has its advantages, growing quickly, 
the earliest and latest in foliage, healthy and easily 
trimmed to shape. Contrary to prevailing opinion, it 
will thrive in (some) dry places, and its roots are no 
more troublesome near a dry garden than other tree 
roots, for they mostly go down deep, seeking moisture. 
Of course the Willow is not as long-lived as Oaks and 
others. It would be possible often to set out a line of 
Willows or Apple-trees beyond the garden wall, and 
to place, 50 or 60 feet behind them, some English 
Oaks, which are slow-growing. When the Willows or 
Apple-trees shall have lived their day, a future gen- 
eration will bless you for the Oaks. Always try to 
plant for the future as well as for yourself in the 
present ! 

THE ROSE GARDEN 

The Rose garden which is planted with monthly 
Roses furnishes the house with cut flowers during a 
prolonged period, and this may be all that is expected 
of such a garden, but there is yet one more thing 
that it may supply if required. Ordinarily, the color 

[ 104 ] 



MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 

effect in Rose gardens is weak compared to the rich 
bloom of the main garden; possibly this point is not 
a matter of importance to the owner who considers 
the place more as a picking garden where the pleasure 
lies in gathering baskets full of lovely color for the 
house vases. However, should one wish to increase 
the color in the Rose garden all that is necessary is 
to border the beds with the dwarf pink or red Baby 
Ramblers, set about 1 foot apart. These Baby Ram- 
blers have several periods of bloom, if trimmed back 
to within about eight inches of the ground, after each 
bloom, and providing the plants are amply fed and 
watered. They are profuse bloomers. If the Rose 
bed measures about 5 or 6 feet in width, two rows 
of the taller best blooming varieties are sufficient for 
the inner space of the bed. La France, Dean Hole, 
Etoile de France, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, Lyon 
Rose, Madame Caroline Testout, Gruss an Teplitz 
are among those which flower the most freely. 

In order to take away from the flatness of a Rose 
garden, where the plants are mostly of a uniform 
height, standard Roses can be used at the comers 
of the beds, and climbers may have a place in the 
background, and covering arches over the paths. 

In the climate near New York City, the standard 
Rose does not often survive a winter in the open, 
therefore the following treatment is advocated. In 
the late autumn open a trench deep enough to lay 

[105] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

the standard Rose plant full length, with a covering 
of earth about 8 inches above the bushy part. Mound 
the ground on top so that water may run off, and 
not settle there. Add a layer of manure on top. This 
same method is often employed for the winter pro- 
tection of other Roses of the more tender class. 

If Gladioli are planted in the Rose beds July 1, they 
will flower in September when the Roses are not quite 
as numerous as in the preceding months. 

Dry blood and sheep manure occasionally for nour- 
ishment, Scotch soot once or twice to intensify color 
of leaf and flower, slug-shot dusted on the wet leaves 
and sprayed off two days later will conquer the pests 
if applied weekly for a while — these are the first rules 
for summer treatment of Roses. 



CONTINUOUS WINTER BLOOM IN THE FLOWER-BOWL 

From the Garden 

Indoors the flower-bowl may contain an unceasing 
supply from outside for twelve months, although the 
garden products are supposedly limited to the months 
of little or no frost. November arriving in our cold 
climate finds for its adornment only hardy Chrysan- 
themums, almost ready to succumb, while some foliage 
and grasses still retain paling tones of russet and red. 
Then the garden is almost forgotten until the Cro- 
cuses and Scillas come in March. But, during the 

[ 106 ] 



I'latk XV 




Trees as a background 
'Fairlawn," Lenox, Mass., Miss Kneeland 




Trees in Preston Garden 

Columbia, S. C. 



MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE 

long interval of many weeks between fall and spring 
the bowl on the dining-table need never be empty if 
there is at our disposal outdoors the evergreen Myrtle- 
bed, and the cheerful berries of the Berberis, the lat- 
ter leafless, of course, when first brought in, but soon 
in the temperature of a warm room it will put forth 
the daintiest of tiny spring green leaves, which never 
develop to full size under these conditions. 

Use a low glass flower-bowl, and within it at the 
bottom a round glass slab filled with perforations to 
hold flower stems. These stem supporters are ob- 
tainable at almost every crockery-store. Cut sprays 
of Myrtle (Periwinkle) about 6 inches long and twigs 
of berries from the Barberry bush, and mix them not 
too densely in the bowl. Both plants will make new 
growth for a while, and they need not be renewed 
more than three times before March, if the water is 
changed several times a week. It is with delight in 
mid- winter that one beholds this welcome, though 
simple contribution to the table decoration. Later, 
for a change, instead of Barberry, small branches of 
Forsythia as well as Apple-blossoms can be forced into 
bloom, and always the Myrtle is invaluable as a foliage 
setting. Its blue flowers will not appear by this sort 
of forcing. 



[107] 



Chapter X 

SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS 

The author's earlier book, "The Seasons in a Flower 
Garden," is more or less a collection of the simpler 
"Do's," and "Don'ts," of garden-life, and conse- 
quently it would not perhaps be very profitable to 
add much of general advice on the care of plants for 
the completion of this volume. A few additional in- 
structions, however, especially for those who have not 
had long experience, may be found of use at this 
point. 

THE FIRST RULE 

After the garden has been planted avoid the notion 
that thereafter only a little care will be required — that 
the gardener can go to the garden when all the rest of 
the work on the place has been attended to. It should 
be garden first or else no garden. No garden is better 
than a poor, neglected, slovenly plot. Economizing on 
the gardener means waste of plant-life and disappoint- 
ments generally. 

By order, I do not mean that plants should look as 
rigid as an inverted broomstick, which happens some- 

[108] 



SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS 

times when they are too tightly tied in the middle. 
Let the main stem be supported by stakes, tied with 
green cord, with the side branches free to spread as 
nature meant they should, except those that need to 
be pinched back to induce branching, or when they 
are shading some plant requiring light. "When Cosmos, 
Sunflowers, Dahlias, or any of the plants with a strong 
centre stalk are allowed to have "humped-backs," 
then the garden begins to look neglected, and after 
several days of such crookedness they are like Humpty 
Dumpty, for nothing can make them right again. How- 
ever, spreading plants like Petunia, Verbena, Ageratum, 
etc., may sprawl freely without being ungraceful, only 
take heed lest they sprawl over something that wants 
to be left alone and free. Another sign of neglect is 
when fading flowers are not removed. Zinnia, Helio- 
trope, Ageratum, and some others will wear a very rusty 
look when thus neglected, which is hardly to be toler- 
ated in the garden that we love. 

When it is desirable to cut back part of a perennial 
that has finished blooming, allow suflScient foliage to 
remain to permit of continued breathing and feeding 
through the pores of the leaves. 

PEONIES 

If a Peony plant is crowding other things, trim it 
only lightly at first, and loosely tie the stalks together. 
By mid-August it can be cut down considerably, as it 

[109] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

will then have acquired most of the vigor necessary 
to sustain its bloom for the next season. For this 
reason July is a good time to feed its roots. When 
Peonies must be moved, August is the best month, 
in order that they may take root again before becom- 
ing dormant. 

LILACS 

Within a month after the Lilac has finished bloom- 
ing, cut out the suckers from around the base, feed 
and water it generously, and you are quite sure of 
fine bloom the following year, providing the shrub 
has been established in its place a year or more, and 
that the soil is even moderately good. The same rule 
holds for all shrubs needing to be improved, and which 
after blooming proceed to make their buds for the 
next year. Perhaps it is needless to add that the 
pruning time for this class of shrub is immediately 
after blooming. Don't prune Lilacs often. 

PRECAUTION IN THE PERENNIAL BED 

An extra precaution for the preservation of our 
perennials is not to have the beds dug over in spring 
until nearly May 1, near New York City, and some- 
what later in a colder place. The most careful digger 
is apt to stab the unseen plants, or to break the very 
brittle young shoots of plants just appearing. How- 
ever, by April 1, lift carefully with a fork most of the 
litter from the beds. 

[110] 



Pi.ATi: XVI 




From a -photograph by J. H. MacFarland Co. 

Peonies in mass 
Long Island 




From a photograph by J. H. MacFarland Co. 



Shirley poppies 
Bar Harbor, Me. 



SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS 

PERMANENT MARKERS 

There are a few perennials so late to appear in spring 
that it is well to mark their places with an iron rod, 
as wooden stakes are apt to break off in winter. These 
plants, which are quite long-lived are Anemone Ja- 
ponica, Salvia azurea, and Eupatorium ccelestinum; 
and, because of its longevity. Gas Plant also deserves a 
permanent marker as does Mertensia, because its foli- 
age disappears soon after bloom is over. 

PLANT IN STANDARD FORM 

With the exception of the standard Rose, Americans 
use few plants in standard form. It is to be hoped 
that we are soon to give more attention to this method 
of getting the best effect from certain plants, for un- 
doubtedly the standards outrank all others in pro- 
fusion of bloom. The plants in standard form to be 
found in some American catalogues are Rose, Helio- 
trope, Fuchsia, Laburnum, Snowball, Weigelia, Locust, 
Wistaria, and Hydrangea. Some of them may be 
kept in tubs, and moved to the garden at their bloom- 
ing time, replacing some earlier blooming variety; 
for instance, a succession of Wistaria, Snowball, Rose, 
and Hydrangea; but Heliotrope and Fuchsia bloom 
all summer. 

LUPIN AND GAS PLANT 

Perennial Lupin poly, and Gas Plant bloom at the 
same time, the one in colors of white and blue, the other 

[ 111 ] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

in white and pink: both doubtless equally popular. 
Lupins live only a few years at the longest; Gas Plants 
are very long-lived, and therefore give better satis- 
faction. If possible, however, in the narrow beds al- 
ways endeavor to grow the Lupins rather than Gas 
Plants, as the latter when full-grown are too bushy 
for a small space. It takes several years before their 
roots are well established, and they become pro- 
fuse bloomers. Plan for them eventually in most 
beds. See illustrations opposite page 24. 

In the first three years of a new garden Lupins 
should be freely used while Gas Plants are slowly 
developing. The later blooming Lupin Moerheimi is 
invaluable to its period. 

GENERAL HINTS 

When a Privet hedge is desired, choose the rounder- 
leaf variety. The foliage of the slim, more pointed leaf 
is not as dense. The rounder-leaf Boxwood plant is 
also generally preferred as an edging. 

Because the life of Arbor-Vitse is scarcely over 
seventy-five years, it is well to select as a hedge plant 
some longer-lived evergreen. Consult a nurseryman 
of your district. 

Hollow slightly the surface over the roots of shrubs 
and deep-rooted plants to keep all the water from 
running off. 

In moving annuals, the size, for instance, of 5-inch 
[ 112 ] 



SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS 

Larkspur (larger Larkspur do not transplant well), water 
from a cup, with a pail near by, is more easily and 
directly applied than from the spout of a water-pot. 
The plants most sensitive to disturbance should have 
several cups of water to soak the hole and soil around 
the roots. Don't depend altogether en rain-soaked 
soil when transplanting annuals. 

Heavy clay soil may be broken up by a thorough 
mixture with it of ashes or sand and if possible leaf- 
mould. It takes less of sand than of other substances 
to make the clay friable, but the former, of course, 
impoverishes the soil, and necessitates plenty of fer- 
tilizer to counteract this effect. Leaf-mould, unless in 
large quantity, without ashes or sand is not sufficient 
to lighten clay soil. 

In planting Pansies, use in the majority of the 
groups masses of separate colors, rather than mixtures, 
and let the whites and yellows predominate. Set out 
good-sized plants in April, if they are to adorn an early 
spring garden. This means the sowing of them August 
1. Those intended to begin bloom in late May, should 
only commence to be at their best about May 20, and 
for this reason don't sow them till late August, and 
plant out May 1. 

If Wistaria will not bloom, some one advises digging 
down about 2 feet to cut off a part of the tap-root in 
order to force out more of the fibrous roots which will 
produce blossoms. 

[ 113 ] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

For very best results sow Hollyhocks where they 
are to grow. 

It takes so long to raise bulbs from seed that it is 
not worth while to attempt it. 

When transplanting, move Irises, Oriental Poppies, 
Lilies candidum if possible a month or two after 
blooming to insure more perfect flowers the next year. 
In congenial soil they can remain undisturbed and 
prosperous for years. 

Rhododendron, Azalea, and Laurel must not be 
treated with manure, but need plenty of leaf-mould in 
the soil and old leaves over the surface of soil winter 
and summer. 

With choice specimen Boxwood, brush off the snow 
as soon as possible before it begins to melt. 

Ashes near, but not in contact with bulbs is ad- 
vised when they are menaced by mice. 

Unless the soil is renourished, few annuals do well in 
the identical space for more than two successive years. 

Never forget that removing fading flowers on an- 
nuals prolongs bloom. The same rule applies to per- 
ennial Coreopsis, Agrostemma, Feverfew, Delphinium, 
Gaillardia, Foxglove, Lupin, Phlox, Salvia pratensis, 
and Shasta Daisy. 

The annuals especially requiring an early start under 
glass, are Heliotrope, Begonia, Impatiens, Lobelia, 
Schizanthus, Torenia, Sanvitalia, Brachycome, Lan- 
tana. Euphorbia, Vinca, Verbena, and Ageratum. 

[ 114 ] 



SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS 

Where soil is but moderately rich, the climate hot 
and dry, and frequent sprinkling impossible, sow Cam- 
panula medium in May as they will be slower in grow- 
ing than those started in late June under more favorable 
conditions. 

When planting annuals and perennials, avoid plac- 
ing roots in contact with manure. A careless gardener 
generally ignores this rule, and the result may be 
disastrous. 

Pink Zinnias and Petunias in the best rose tones, 
are perhaps the most important annuals in a garden 
of prolonged bloom, but unfortunately, these seeds are 
most unreliable, especially those of Petunias and the 
dwarf er pink Zinnia; neither does the light yellow 
shade always come true, and a dark red Zinnia is al- 
most impossible to obtain. In order to procure plants 
of the right colors, sow more than will be required; 
you may then reasonably hope to find a sufficient 
number in the desired shades. 

Gardeners who are particular about color blending 
should attempt to secure their own seeds from the 
best shades of the following plants: Zinnia, Petunia, 
pale yellow Anthemis, the most double white Fever- 
few, and light pink and white Silene armeria, but with 
only a little of its magenta pink. Feverfew left to 
self-sow in good soil will supply us the next year with 
three or four successive crops, offering the opportu- 
nity for a monthly first bloom of this useful flower, in- 

[ 115 ] 



CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA 

stead of the later and weaker bloom of the older 
plants. The latter can be discarded for new ones; 
nothing transplants so easily. In the scheme for con- 
tinuous bloom, Feverfew, Larkspur, Canterbury Bells, 
and Zinnia are invaluable. The latter only has a long 
and uninterrupted bloom, but the others are useful in 
supplying bloom at times when otherwise the garden 
coloring may be weak. 

The author's final message for perfecting the plant- 
ing in a bed of continuous bloom is to use sufficient 
plants to prevent any vacant spaces being visible after 
the plants have reached maturity. Plant should touch 
plant, and there will inevitably be fewer weeds, and 
the massing would become more harmonious and ef- 
fective. 



[116] 



PLANTING CHARTS 



PLANTING CHARTS 

The following charts do not contain quite all the 
plants that may be included in plantings for con- 
tinuous bloom. It is a question of preference where 
some are concerned. Large gardens could have a few- 
other varieties, some of which are named and marked 
with a star in the chapters on "What to Plant." 

The names on charts printed in black ink are per- 
ennials; red ink indicates the annuals. 

The author's earliest experiments were made in her 
own garden, and later experiences in the larger gar- 
dens of friends furnished ample opportunity for de- 
veloping satisfactorily an accumulation of ideas and 
aspirations. The charts are facsimiles of successful 
plantings. 

In attempting to follow the plans, successful results 
will be at last attained only when the gardener has 
learned the knack of crowding without detriment to 
the plants. Any one familiar with his flowers will 
know when to allow a 6-inch space to a slim annual, 
and 18 inches to a bushy perennial, and when to fill 
a space with one or with more of a kind. Staking 
the plants likely to lean over and the trimming of the 
spreading lower leaves that are shading a neighbor 
are absolutely necessary for success in such beds. 

[119] 



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PLANTS USED IN CHART NO. V 

FOUR SMALL OPEN BEDS 

Dimensions of Outer Oval, 19 x 22 Feet 
Centre Bed — 5 Feet Diameter. Bird-Fomitain Pedestal Base — 2 Feet Diameter 

PERENNIALS 

Lilium candidum; 9 bulbs, around bird basin. Tulip, late, Cottage variety; pink and white; 18 bulbs, 

on circular line in centre bed. , 

ANNUALS 

Ageratum, var. Perfection; 8 plants in a line on inner Pansy; in 2 beds; white and blue, mixed; 5 dozen or 

edge of each of 2 beds. more in a bed. In 2 beds mixed Pansies, 3 dozen 

Daisy, English; 2 dozen; mix with Pansies, in 2 of the or more in a bed, with English Daisies. 

beds. Petunia; in 2 beds, pink Petunias edged with white 

Heliotrope, Standard; the large Hs stand for Stand- Petunias. In 2 beds, white Petunias edged with 

ard Heliotrope; 3 plants in each small bed; 5 plants pink Petunias. About 36 plants required for each 

at regular intervals in centre bed. bed. 



CHART NO. V 

Four Small Open Beds — Dimensions of Oval, 19 x 22 Feet. (For H, see opposite page) 




PLANTS USED IN CHART NO. VI 



PINK, WHITE, AND SOME BLUE 

Round Bed — 14 Feet Diameter 

PERENNIALS 



Anchusa Italica, Opal; 3 clumps; 2 or 3 plants 6 inches 

apart, to clump. 
Campanula persicifolia; white, blue, alternating; 8 or 

9 clumps; 4 plants to clump. 
Chrysanthemum, September-flowering; 2 pink, 1 white; 

3 clumps; 3 plants, set 6 inches apart, to clump. 
Delphinium belladonna; 4 plants. 
Foxglove; pink; 3 plants. 
Gas Plant; 2 while, 1 pink. 

Iris, German; white; 2 clumps; 6 plants to a clump. 
Lupin polyphyllus; white and blue; 4 plants. 



Phlox, late; 2 pink, 1 white; 3 clumps. 

Platycodon; 2 white, 2 blue; 4 groups; 2 plants to 

group. 
PjTethrum, hybrid; pink, white; 9 plants; large. 
Shasta Daisy; 4 groups; 4 or 5 plants to group. 
Sweet William; white and pink alternating, in outer 

line; 9 plants. Remove after bloom, fill spaces with 

Heliotrope or Dianthus. 
Tulip, Cottage, late; white, pink; 9 groups; 3 bulbs to 

a group. 



ANNUALS 



Bluets, mixed; 20 or more plants massed together in 

centre (2 feet diameter), bordered with line of Silene. 
Canterbury Bells; pink, white; 6 plants; set in front of 

Feverfew. 
Dianthus, Chinese; pink; 9 groups on outer edge; 3 or 

4 plants to group, alternating with patches of 

Sweet Alyssum. 
Feverfew; white, double; 5 plants behind Canterbury 

Bells. Fall-sovm and May-sown. 
Heliotrope; groups of 3 plants; 8 or 10 groups in spaces 

near front. 
Larkspur; pink, white; fall-sown, also spring-sown 

(F. and S.); possibly 6 or 8 in Chrysanthemum 

line and 4 white on Zinnia line. 



Pansies, fall-sovm ; white and lavender alternating. 

Scabiosa; set 5 or 6 near together in a line in 3 groups, 
alternating with Snapdragon and Vinca. 

Silene armeria; 1 close line encircling Bluets; later 
remo^"e Silene and Bluets, giving more space for 
Zinnias. 

Snapdragon; white, pink; 8 plants. 

Sweet Alyssum, Little Gem; plant in 1 line patches al- 
ternating with Dianthus. 

Vinca; white. Set a few Vinca plants near together 
in 3 or 4 spaces behind Pyrcthrum line. 

Zinnia; pink; tall variety; 4 or 5 plants, to be the centre 
background by midsummer; plant just outside 
the Bluets, which are later removed. 



CHART NO. VI 

Round Bed — 14 Feet Diameter 




^^ns'ies (^eavN'd^ 



I 



PLANTS USED IN CHART NO. VII 



PINK PREDOMINATING 

Large Square Open Bed — Diameter 20 x 
Diameter of Imier Circle, 3 Feet 

PERENNIALS 



Feet 



Agrostemma cor.; 4 clumps of white, 2 of garnet; 

4 or 5 plants to clump. 

Anchusa Italica, Opal; 5 groups; 3 plants to 

group. 
Chrysanthemum, September-flowering varieties; 

5 groups, 3 pink, 2 white; 3 plants to group. 
Columbine; 6 pink to fill 6 spaces. 
Delphinium Chinense; light blue and white; to 

fill 4 or 5 spaces on two sides of bed; 2 plants 

to space. 
Delphinium formosum; 3 plants near centre, also 

one D. belladonna near each corner. 
Feverfew; double white; 10 plants; 2 sets. 
Foxglove; white, pink; 4 groups; 2 plants to 

group. 
Gas Plant; white and pink; 3 or 4 groups; 2 

plants, 8 inches apart, to a group. 
Iris, German; pinkish Queen of May clump at 

each corner; 3 clumps on inner line. 



Iris, Japan; white; 3 or 4 clumps on inner line. 
Lupin Moerheimi; 6 plants; white, pink. 
Lupin poly.; white; 7 plants, white. 
Peony; white, pink; 3 plants. 
Phlox, late; pink; 3 or 4 large clumps. 
Phlox, Lingard; 4 or 6 clumps. 
Poppy, Oriental; pink; 8 large plants. 
Pyrethrum, hybrid; 10 pink and white plants. 
Rudbeckia purp.; 4 large plants at comers; 3 

plants, 6 inches apart, to a group. 
Salvia azurea; 3 or 4 groups; 4 plants to group; 

behind late Phlox. 
Sedum spec; 4 clumps; 4 corners. 
Shasta Daisy; 8 groups; 5 plants, 6 inches apart, 

to group. 
Sweet William; light pink and salmon-pink; 3 

dozen, alternating with Tulips. 
Tulips, Cottage; selection of pink and white 

varieties; in groups. 



ANNUALS 



Bluets (Corn Flower); white, pink; massed in 
centre of bed; edged with Silene. 

Candytuft; white, pink; sow a few seeds in 
patches late April, alternating with Petunia 
spaces behind Pansy line. 

Canterbm-y Bells (Campanula medium); pink, 
white; 15 plants. 

Cosmos; 4 or 5 plants; early white, pink; plant 
on outskirts of Bluet-Silene patch. 

Geranium; 36 rose-pink, if Impatiens is not ob- 
tainable. 

Impatiens Sultani; 48 light pink only; if it can- 
not be had, use pink Geraniums. 

Larkspur; white, lavender, pink; falUsovm; 8 
spaces; 2 or 3 plants to space; spring-sovm also 
desirable. 



Pansy; white, lavender; in a line 3 inches from 
edge of bed; replaced by Petunia and Verbena. 

Petunia, compact; white, pink; 4 or 5 plants to a 
space, alternating colors in spaces. 

Scabiosa; groups of 10 plants near together; 
planted around Canterbiu-y Bells. 

Silene armeria; encircle Silene and Bluet group 
with a line of string and stakes. 

Snapdragon; white, pink; use if possible 2 dozen 
in bed. 

Verbena, var. Francis; pink; in patches, alter- 
nating with white Verbena on 2 sides. 

Zinnia; pink, tall variety; in Poppy spaces; 9 
plants or more in bed. Poppy dies down soon 
after bloom. 

In climate where season is shorter Pansies may 
be omitted. 



CHART NO. VII 

Large Square Open Bed — 20 x 22 Feet. Diameter Inner Circle, 3 Feet 



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NOTES PERTAINING TO THE CHARTS 

The bed of perennials in Chart XI, on preceding page, is for the 
purpose of showing the possibiHties in such a planting. However, 
besides the Petunias, this bed has need of such annuals as Cam- 
panula medium. Larkspur, Feverfew, and dwarf Zinnia, filling all 
vacant spaces. 

Charts VIII and IX could hold three Feverfew, fall-sown, also 
June-sown. 

Chart IX could contain one Anchusa plant in the centre. 

Bear in mind the great value of Larkspur, Feverfew, or Anthemis 
well distributed over most of the beds. 

In the large beds especially there may be need of an increase in 
the number of annuals called for, in order that any vacant spaces 
may be filled. 

Cut back Delphiniums, Phloxes, and Shasta Daisy to bring 
later bloom and prevent the annuals from going to seed for the 
same reason. 

For an eflFective summer planting of annuals in a wall bed sim- 
ilar to the one in Chart II have, instead of scallops, a line of blue 
Ageratum at the edge. Behind, a line of white and pink compact 
Petunia. Further back, three closely set lines of garnet and pink 
Globe Amaranth. At the rear some early Cosmos. Mingled with 
these annuals may be planted lines or groups of various periods of 
perennials. 

Another attractive finish to the front of a bed is made by a line 
of annual Dianthus at the edge, with two close-set rows of white 
and pink Vinca behind. 

In the chart lists where the number of plants required is not 
indicated the gardener may provide enough to fill the spaces. 



138 



INDEX 



INDEX 



Achillea, "The Pearl," 27, 49, 51 
Achillea tomentosa, 22 
Aconitum. See Monkshood. 
Ageratum, 16, 17, 23, 25, 35, 73, 92, 

114, 122, 124, 128, 136, 138 
Agrostemma, 16, 27, 49, 51, 124, 132 
Akebia quintata, 93 
Alternation of periods, 1, 12 
Alyssum, Sweet. See Sweet Alyssmn 
Anchusa, 7, 20, 27, 48, 52, 120, 122, 

124, 126, 130, 132, 137 
Anemone Japonica, 26, 50, 52, 122, 

126, 137 
Annuals, classified, 29-38 

as edgings, 21, 138 
fall-sown and spring-sown, 
7, 8, 9, 29, 30, 31, 32, 34, 37 
Annuals, frame space not necessary 

for certain, 33 
Annuals, garden without, 3 
in perennial bed, 4 
transplanting, 40, 41, 42, 
43, 112 
Annuals, not easily transplanted, 33, 

35 
Annuals, soil for, 114 

start under glass, 35, 42 
" tender, 35, 42 

wintering hardy, 44, 45 
Anthemis, 8, 29, 40, 49, 52, 115, 122, 

138 
Antirrhinum. See Snapdragon 
Aquilegia. See Columbine 
Arabis, 47, 53, 97 
Arbor Vitas, 112 
Armeria, 22 
Aster, China, annual, 35, 38, 74 

perennial, 7, 28, 50, 53, 122, 
124, 137 



Aster, large-flowering. See Chrys- 
anthemum, h. p. 

Aster, New England. See perennial 
Aster 

Aster, NoviK Angliae. See perennial 
Aster 

Azalea, 114 

Bachelor's-button. See Ranuncu- 
lus 
Balloon Flower. See Platycodon 
Balsam, 35, 38, 74 
Bed space, 13, 14, 15, 20, 21, 119, 138 
Beds, narrow, 24 

" open, 13, 16, 19 

" roimd, 15, 16, 17 
square, 15, 16 

" wall, 13, 18, 19, 20, 21, 97, 138 
Begonia, 8, 17, 23, 35, 75, 98, 114 
Bellflower, Japanese. See Platyco^ 

don 
BeUis perennis. See English Daisy 
Blanket-flower. See GaUlardia 
Bleeding Heart, 47, 97 
Blood, dry, 106 
Bloom, winter, in flower-bowl, 106 

" periods of, 1, 2, 46 

" well-balanced, 2, 12 
Bluebells. See Mertensia 
Bluets, 15, 16, 29, 40, 41, 48, 77, 97, 

130, 132, 134 
Boxwood, 114 
Brachycome, 24, 75, 114 
Bulbs, 91, 114 
Butterfly Flower. See Schizanthus 

Calendula, 10, 11, 17, 32, 75, 122, 136 
California Poppy. See Eschscholt- 



[141] 



INDEX 



CaUiopsis, 10, 11, 17, 23, 32, 76, 98, 

122, 124, 136 
Callistephus Chinensis. See China 

Aster 
Camomile, double. See Feverfew 
Campanula calycanthema, 53, 76 
" Carpatica, 22 

" medium, 8, 16, 20, 25, 

28, 29, 31, 39, 42, 44, 48, 53, 76, 

115, 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 

134, 135, 137, 138 
Campanula persicifolia, 27, 48, 54, 

124, 130, 134 
Campion, Rose. See Agrostemma 
Candytuft, annual, 9, 24, 32, 38, 49, 

76, 124, 132 
Candytuft, perennial, 47, 54, 97 
Canna, 20, 50, 54, 91 
Canterbury Bell. See Campanula 

medium 
Catchfly. See Silene 
Celosia plumosa, 35, 78 

" spicata, 36, 78 
Centaurea, Cyanus. See Bluets 

" moschata, 77 

Chrysanthemum, h. p., 16, 25, 36, 50, 

54, 98, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 135, 

137 
Chrysanthemum, Burridgeanum. 

See Painted Daisy 
Chrysanthemum coccineum. See 

Pyrethrum, hybrid 
Chrysanthemum coronarium. See 

Painted Daisy 
Chrysanthemum, frutescens, 78 

" maximum. See 

Shasta Daisy 
Chrysanthemxun ullginosum. See 

Pyrethrum uliginosum 
City yard, 92 
Clarkia, 36, 78 
Cleome, 9, 20, 35, 38, 78 
Climip, number small plants to a, 6, 

21, 51 
Cockscomb. See Celosia 
Color, 99 

" in mass, 99 

' standard, 100 



Columbine, 7, 26, 48, 55, 97 

Coneflower. See Rudbeckia pur- 
purea 

Conoclinum ccelestinum. See Eupa- 
toriiun ccelestinum 

Coreopsis, annual. See Calliopsis 
" lanceolata, 27, 49, 56, 

124 

Corn Flower. See Bluets 

Cosmos, early, 15, 19, 21, 33, 79, 120, 
124, 132 

Coiu-t, outer, 98 

Daffodils, 92, 96 

Dahlia, 21, 50, 56, 91, 122, 137 

Daisy, English, 16, 30, 31, 38, 41, 47, 
79, 96, 126, 128 

Daisy, Giant. See Pyrethrum uligi- 
nosimi 

Daisy, Michaelmas. See Aster, per- 
ennial 

Daisy, Painted, 10, 11, 35, 77 

" Paris. See Chrysanthemum 
frutescens 

Daisy, Shasta. See Shasta Daisy 

Delphinium, 7, 16, 20, 21, 25, 26, 27. 
49, 56, 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 
137 

Delphinium Chinense, 27, 56, 120, 
122, 124, 126, 132, 137 

Dianthus barbatus. See Sweet Wil- 
liam 

Dianthus Chinensis, 23, 30, 41, 42, 
79, 122, 130, 136, 138 

Dictamnus. See Gas Plant 

Digitalis. See Foxglove 

Doronicum, 47, 97 

Dusty Miller. See Agrostemma 

Echinops, 50, 57, 124, 137 
Enrichment of soil, 44 
Eryngiimi, 50, 57 
Eschscholtzia, 10, 32, 80, 122 ' 
Eupatorium ccelestinum, 28, 50, 58, 

122, 124, 137 
Euphorbia. See Snow-on-the-Moun- 

tain 
Evening Primrose. See (Enothera 



[142] 



INDEX 



Fall garden, spring and, 98 

False Dragonhead. See Physoste- 

gia 
Feverfew, 8, 29, 30, 31, 40, 49, 58, 80, 

115, 120, 122, 126, 130, 138 
Fleur-de-lis. See Iris 
Floss Flower. See Ageratum 
Forget-me-not, 22, 29, 30, 31, 40, 41, 

47, 58, 80, 96, 
Foxglove, 7, 21, 27, 49, 59, 120, 130, 

132, 137 
Frames, 7, 8, 32, 33, 35, 45 
Fraxinella. See Gas Plant 
Fuchsia, 80, 111 

Gaillardia, annual, 10, 11, 33, 81 

" perennial, 7, 27, 49, 59 

Garden Heliotrope. See Valerian 
Gas Plant, 7, 28, 48, 59, 120, 124, 

126, 130, 132 
General Hints, 112 
Geranium, 132, 136 
Gladioli, 36, 49, 50, 91, 98, 106, 137 
Globe Amaranth, 33, 81, 138 
Globe Thistle. See Echinops 
Godetia, 36, 81 

Gomphrena. See Globe Amaranth 
Gypsophila paniculata, 27, 50, 60 

Heartsease. See Pansy 
Helenium, 27, 50, 60, 122 
Helianthus. See Sunflower 
Heliotrope, 8, 16, 17, 25, 35, 81, 111, 

122, 124, 128, 130, 134 
Heliotrope, Garden. See Valerian 
Hemerocallis. See Lily, lemon 
Hesperis. See Rocket, Sweet 
Hollyhock, 7, 21, 27, 49, 60, 114, 120, 

122, 124, 137 
Hyacinth, 47 

Iberis sempervirens. See Candy- 
tuft, h. p. 

Iberis umbellata. See Candytuft, 
h. a. 

Impatiens, balsaminea. See Balsam 
" Sultani pink, 25, 35, 82, 

114, 132 



Iris Germanica, 28, 39, 46, 49, 61, 97, 

122, 124, 130, 132, 137 
Iris, Japanese, 28, 61, 124, 132, 137 

LadySlipper. See Balsam 

Lady's Eardrop. See Fuchsia 

Lantana, 82, 114 

Larkspur, 8, 20, 25, 29, 31, 36, 41, 49, 
82, 98, 113, 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 
132, 134, 135, 138 

Larkspur, perennial. See Delphin- 
ium 

Laurel, 114 

Lavatera, 10, 33, 38, 83 

Liatris, 61 

Lilac, 110 

Lilimn, auratum, 61 

candidum, 20, 25, 26, 39, 49, 
62, 128, 135 

Lilium speciosum, 62 

Lily, Annunciation. See L. candi- 
dum 

Lily, Gold-banded. See Auratum 
" Japanese. See Auratum 
" Lemon, 28, 48, 60 
" Madonna. See L. candidum 

Lines, plants in, 1, 2, 12 

Lobelia, 35, 83, 114 

Lupin, annual, 10, 33, 38, 49, 83, 96 
perennial, 7, 15, 21, 25, 26, 
27, 40, 48, 62, 97, 111, 120, 122, 
124, 126, 130, 132, 135, 137 

Lupins vs. Gas Plants, 111 

Lychnis, Chalcedonica, 27, 49, 63 
" coronaria. See Agrostemma 

Madwort. See Sweet Alyssum 

Mallow. See Lavatera 

Maltese Cross. See Lychnis Chal- 
cedonica 

Marguerite, white. See Chrysan- 
themum frutescens 

Marguerite, yellow. See Anthemis 

Marigold, African, 15, 33, 84, 122 
" Pot. See Calendula 

Markers, permanent. 111 

Matricaria. See Feverfew 

Meadow Sage. See Salvia pratensb 



[ 143 



INDEX 



Mertensia, 47, 63, 97 

Michaelmas Daisy. See Aster, h. p. 

Mistflower. See Eupatorium coe- 

lestinum 
Monkshood, 21, 26, 50, 64, 98, 120, 

122, 124, 126, 137 
Mullein Pink. See Agrostemma 
My Garden, 94 
Myosotis. See Forget-me-not 

Nasturtium, 9, 11, 33, 84 
Nicotiana, 33, 84, 94, 120 
Nursery, sowing in the, 5, 7, 8, 10, 
31, 32, 35 

Obedience. See Physostegia 
(Enothera, 7, 27, 48, 64, 122, 124 

Pansy, 11, 16, 17, 18, 23, 24, 25, 30, 
41, 47, 84, 92, 113, 120, 122, 124, 
128, 130, 132, 134, 135, 136 
Peach-bells. See Campanula persi- 

cifolia 
Peony, 7, 21, 28, 39, 48, 65, 101, 109, 

132 
Perennials, classified, 26-28 

" as edging, annuals vs., 21 

long-lived, 26-28 
" only, bed of, 4 

" precaution in beds, 110 

" seeds not obtainable, 27 

" short-lived, 23, 27 

" sowing of, 5, 26, 28 

" wintering, 44 

Periods of bloom, 1, 2, 46 
" fewer in north, 47 
Petunia, 16, 17, 23, 25, 33, 85, 92, 98, 
115, 122, 126, 128, 132, 134, 135, 
136, 137 
Phlox, divaricata, 47, 65, 97 
" Drummondi, 85 
" Miss Lingard, 28, 49, 65, 132 
" paniculata, 7, 20, 28, 50, 66, 
120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 137 
Phlox subulata, 47, 96 
Physostegia, 66 
Pmks, Clove, 22 
Planting, close, 23, 119 



Plants, by purchase, 6 

" in lines, 12 

" " clumps, number of. See 

Clump 
Platycodon, 7, 26, 49, 66, 124, 130 
Plumbago, 22 

Poppy, California. SeeEschscholtzia 
Poppy, Oriental, 7, 20, 21, 26, 39, 48, 

67, 97, 122, 124, 132, 137 
Poppy, Shirley, 9, 29, 30, 38, 41, 86, 

101 
Portulaca, 11, 33, 86 
Primrose, evening. See (Enothera 

spring, 47, 67, 96 
Privet, 112 

Pm'chase, plants by, 6 
Pyrethrum, hybrid, 7, 26, 48, 67, 97, 

120, 124, 126, 130, 132, 137 
Pyrethrum uliginosimi, 50, 68 

Ranunculus acris, 48, 68 

Rhododendron, 114 

Rock Cress. See Arabis 

Rocket, Sweet, 27, 48, 68, 124 

Rose Campion. See Agrostemma 

Rose Garden, 104 

Rudbeckia purpurea, 27, 50, 68, 132, 

137 
Ride in gardening, first, 108 

Sage, annual. See Salvia farinacea 
" Meadow. See Salvias 
" Pitcher's. See Salvia azurea 

Salpiglossis, 16, 25, 35, 38, 87, 120, 
134. 135 

Salvia, azurea, 7, 26, 50, 69, 124, 132 
" farinacea, 33, 87 
" pratensis, 26, 48, 69 

Santolina, 22, 69 

Sanvitalia, 24, 87, 114, 122, 136 

Scabiosa, 16, 18, 35, 36, 87, 120, 130, 
132, 134 

Scalloped edge, 23, 123, 136 

Schizanthus, 36, 88, 114 

Sea Bugloss. See Anchusa 

Sea Holly. See Eryngium 

Sedum spectabile, 7, 28, 50, 70, 132 

Self-sown plants, 10, 29, 41 



[144] 



INDEX 



Shasta Daisy, 26,27, 49,'70, 122, 124 

126, 132, 137 
Silene armeria, 16, 29, 38, 40, 41, 48 

88, 97, 115, 120, 130, 132, 134 ' 
Slug-shot, 106 
Snapdragon, 8, 16, 18, 25, 30, 31, 41 

88, 98, 130, 132, 134, 135 
Sneezeweed. See Helenium 
Sneezewort, double. See Achillea 
Snow-on-the-Mountain, 89, 114 
Soil, 113, 114; enrichment of, 44 
Soot, Scotch, 106 
Space between plants, 20, 21, 138 
Speedwell. See Veronica 
Spider Flower. See Cleome 
Spring garden, 46, 47, 95 
Spring and fall garden, 98 
Staking, 43, 109, 119 
Standard, plants. 111 
Roses, 105 
Starwort. See Aster 
Statice, 7, 27, 50, 70 
Sunflower, 19, 21, 89, 122 
Sweet Alyssum, 10, 11, 17, 20, 23, 24, 

30, 32, 49, 73, 120, 122, 124, 126, 

130, 136 
Sweet William, 16, 18, 25, 27, 48, 71, 

120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 135, 137 

Tagetes, erecta. See Marigold 

signata pumila, 33, 89, 122 
Thistle, Globe. See Echinops 



Tickseed. See Coreopsis 
Tobacco Plant. See Nicotiana 
Torcma, 35, 89, 92, 114 
Touch-me-not. See Impatiens Sul- 

tani 
Transplanting, 9, 40, 41, 43 
Trees in gardens, 102 
Tulip, early, 24, 46, 47, 91, 135 
Tulip, late, 15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 25, 

46. 47, 91, 120, 124, 126, 128, 130, 

132, 134, 135, 137 

Valerian officinalis, 27, 48, 71, 97. 

124 
Verbena, 16, 17, 23, 35, 90, 98, 114, 

132, 136 
Veronica, 28, 50, 71 
Vinca, 35, 90, 114, 130, 138 
Viola cornuta, 22, 29, 72, 92, 97 
Vitis heterophylla, 93 

Wall beds, 13, 18, 20, 21, 97 
What, when, where, 2, 3 
Winter bloom in flower-bowl, 106 
Wintering hardy annuals, 44, 45 
Wintering perennials and annuals, 44 
Wistaria, 92, 111, 113 

Zinnia, 15, 18, 20, 25, 33, 90, 115, 
122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 134, 135, 
137, 138 



[145] 



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